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The Aviator and ST diff’s are the same. No brainer.

As far as I can tell, the same ‘non-coated’ axles have matching part numbers between the Timberline, ST, and Aviator: L1MZ-4K138-C and L1MZ-4K139-C Then again, Ford has known to be wrong before. If common sense came in to play, I’d like to assume all the inner and outer splines are the same...

In the brochure…

It’s not going to be a Torsen. It will be the same Aviator/ST diff. There are a lot of them on eBay for just a few hundred dollars. Just because the housing is the same, doesn’t mean the internals are. This will help:

Now search the S606B differential, which is on the tag. The same ENGINEERING number will come up for both the Aviator and ST. Same part numbers I already posted.

There are several variations with the 3.58 gears using the 8.8“ differential. Again, that tag is an engineering number, not a part number. The part number for the ST/Aviator entire carrier is L1MZ-4000-D (to the best of my recollection), whereas it’s M1MZ-4000-TB for the Timberline. I looked...

Would be cool if it’s true, but that isn’t a part number, it’s an engineering number on the housing. It only means the case is the same. The Timberline carrier assembly part number is listed a few posts up and it only cross-references to the 2.3 model. If you look in through the axle shaft...

Read Post #20.

Couldn’t care less, but it’s a bummer that shipping hurts. My post showing the screen shots was for the benefit of anyone thinking the prices had actually gone up on those items, which they haven’t. If others need them and aren’t in a hurry, the “normal” costs are still reasonable.

So the prices didn’t really go up. You just got raped on shipping. Read the thread. It’s in Post #2.

The prices really didn’t go up - unless you suck at searching and pay full retail. Any dealership that sells parts online isn’t going to bend you over on these. It’s why places like Tasca, Tousley, Levittown, etc. advertise on forums. Gotta’ put in some effort as a buyer though unless you prefer...

You have to look at the spring codes on your VIN label. Mine matched with one variation of the PIU springs which leads me to believe they share them with the ST.

The OE bushings might be bonded - so it would take a ton of drilling and burning to remove them. If they are pressed-in - it would be a total nightmare getting the entire subframe manipulated to use some sort fixture to push them out. I did the job on the IRS in my ‘03 Cobra, and it was spread...

If you want to drop your entire rear subframe, burn out the OE rubber, clean the mounting shells, and add poly bushings (assuming ANYONE actually makes them), then put everything back together, feel free to report on how it turns out…after a day or two of labor.

Another install done, took about 90 minutes including tool gathering and driving up on ramps. Didn’t remove the rear wheels and it was no problem, especially on my 8” lift Race Ramps. It was also necessary to unbolt the rear exhaust hangers and slide the pipes to get at one of the bolts on those...

It’s not paint on Steeda’s parts, it’s a powder coat. That coating on suspension parts that flex will come off and lead to rust. They did offer me a replacement sway bar as well, but I have no desire to repeat the process every couple years. A Tier One supplier like Eibach probably won’t have...

This was my former Steeda sway bar after two winters in MI. I pulled it and went with the PIU bar & shocks. No way was I going to use their springs, even though they are really the only ones conducive to towing. Just stayed with the stock springs.

Have had the PIU rear bar and matching shocks on for a couple months now. Nice improvement and even better that it isn’t going to rust out like the Steeda bar. You have the correct p/n.

It’s shown in the instructions.

You can buy the Ford plate now for around $120. From the Timberline but fits all models. https://www.explorerst.org/threads/ford-performance-skid-plate-kit.6402/#post-81932