Search results

Had an appointment with the dealer today, but their transmission guy is booked until June. Apparently this car has had some leaks at the output shaft seal and some harsh shift issues in 2021. The trans has definitely been out of the car at some point, possibly rebuilt.

Here's the passenger front corner. When I put a dry paper towel in that area above the pan, it came back with red fluid on it. Cooler lines seem ok.

I wish it was that, it would be an easy fix. I looked on the driver's side and the cooler area, it looked pretty good.

I recently found that I have a very small and slow leak in my transmission. I noticed some red fluid on the heat shield every time I drove. It would especially pool towards the rear of the transmission, sometimes even dripping slightly off of the back portion of the pan. I removed the heat...

Yes, it was. The transmission was leaking too, but they couldn't replicate it. Do you have any pics of your permatex fix?

I take it that they only replaced the O-Ring based on my invoice.

Does the motor have to be running when checking the transmission temp, or can it just be warm? Does the 10R60 have the same vent as shown here on a 10R80? I'm wondering what happens if the trans is overfilled: does it cause issues, or does excess fluid get pushed out this vent?

I don't have any error codes yet. I'm sure it will eventually happen as it is slowly leaking. Do you think the dealer will still address it, or make me wait until the code appears?

Any advice on how to make sure my dealer properly addresses mine? I have the leak at the FADA, which has made the engine oil pan shiny. I also have a leaking driver CV boot. Thirdly, I have a leak towards the rear of my transmission. I have a feeling it is the output shaft seal. The pan...

What did it end up being? I just noticed a leak on my transmission too. I kept seeing a little bit of red fluid on the heat shield after driving.

Does anyone have the TSB number? Is it TSB 23-2114?

Not my pic, but looks like I won't be the first to install this. Another person said they've had it for a few months with a tune, no issues. Their dragy was in the usual expected range. I just found that I have a bad driver CV axle and the front axle disconnect actuator leak. Intercooler...

I got the one from @ssw, no longer looking.

Not yet. I am looking for a replacement Ford emblem since mine is cracked. I wanted to knock that out while I have the bumper off. I think maybe next week or so I will put it on.

Do you know if this is it? https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-grille-emblem-jt4z8213a I have one coming from isfp custom emblems that goes on top of my existing emblem, but I think it would look a little better if the OEM one wasn't cracked.

I'm looking for an OEM Ford badge that goes on the grille. Mine is cracked. Ford part number is JT4Z-8213-A.

There's currently a sale on CVF. 10% off and no tax. It brings it to slightly under 800. I got the eBay one for $496.

If you have a hi-res closeup of the fins on the Whipple, that would be helpful. I wouldn't be surprised if that was the case. Out of curiousity, I wanted to compare the fin density between all the different intercoolers: Whipple: Steeda: CVF: Mishimoto: It looks like CVF has the most...

@UNBROKEN @CoHPhasor you both make completely valid points. I agree. That said, it is a calculated risk (that I perceive to be very low) that I am willing to take. Time and logs will tell how efficient this is at cooling, and how long it lasts.