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Find a better paint shop. There are no paintable versions from Ford...yours need to be smoothed out and prepped right and they’ll last just as long as every other painted plastic part.

Agreed you shouldn’t have to but it is an option for sure. If Steeda changed the angle of the bar ends just a few degrees it would eliminate this issue.

Mine is close to the H&R springs but I’ve checked it a few times and no contact. They definitely need to adjust those stops. I plan to order some shaft collars like this...Hellwig sends them with some of their bars. With these you can center the bar and lock it into place.

Yea...$1600 seems a little high to me.

Makes me glad I have a 4 post lift and a full mechanics shop behind my office for our fleet trucks.

Does it have fuel and fuel pressure?

Mine are going on this weekend. I’ll let y’all know just how sucky it is.

My personal results with cans mounted in various places in the engine bay are different. More condensation in winter in the can no matter where the can is located...except the VTA cans which were largely always just oil.

Yea...I decided to try this app out since I already have the OBD adapter they recommend for Forscan crap. I tried the AutoMeter DashLink 2.0....it’s a raging piece of shit. I got it to connect maybe 5 times.

Put together a digital page as well. Looking forward to actually connecting it to the minivan this weekend to open up the mfg specific PID’s to see if I can catch an oil pressure reading somewhere.

Give it time. Mine has been on for a while and I can get a few drops out. And the condensation that hits these cans won’t evaporate out...you’ll have to drain it out. The VTA can on my blown Coyote is the only one I’ve ran that would let the condensation evaporate. Both UPR and JLT cans on...

You’ll always have less in warmer months and more in colder months. You’ll see the pattern eventually.

That’s what I did.

Bored at work...building new gauges as close to the Sport Mode gauges as I can in the OBDLink app.

Yay me! Roof rail delete parts shipped today.

There’s an o-ring that goes on front of it inside the housing. So basically...the guy that posted on how to do a cheap version didn’t know all the details. lol It’s simple...you can’t miss it when you take it apart. As for the airbox, remove the tubes, filter and top obviously. I removed the...

A cell phone to call a roll back and a credit card to pay him. lol

I only removed the slats. The frame and module are in place and plugged in.

Doesn’t it have one built in? I’ve never opened mine...just got it for the view. lol

That’s debatable but I feel better with them gone.