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I deleted the rear wiper damn near 6 years ago too. lol

I just realized I’ve never used this in the 6 years I’ve had this car. lol

I’ve been mixing for over 5 years now. I haven’t tested fuel in close to 5 years. I have the E85 part on my app set to 80 and guesstimate the fuel level. I have a sensor so I can watch the blend and I’m very rarely more than 5 points off and if I am it’s always on the low side. An E50 tune is...

Remove the bumper cover, and then it mostly just snaps together. Maybe some little torx screws here and there depending on how far you strip it down.

A lot of them are sold because 99% of them use the BOV flange option to add a BOV.

Fabbed up an air deflector between my IB sub vent and the lower rear bumper. Since I removed the oem air deflector the rear bumper was all floppy…this firmed it up and deflects the air at the same time.

After I cut the floor in the back, I couldn’t use the factory belly pan thing anymore because it blocked the vent. I tried cutting some holes in it, but it was still making noise when the stereo was playing. I removed it and then the back bumper is all floppy and weak so I finally got off my...

I’ve always said the scoops make no difference so I spent the money on the S&B version which is way bigger than the VT to prove it. It’s feeding a closed S&B intake and the only thing it does is get my filters full of crap faster.

It’s time to go back and put your hands on every connection you touched. Something wasn’t put back together, right

I spoke to the guy that’s probably installed more of FenFab cold side pipes on 25-26 cars, which are identical, than anyone else. All you need is the pipe and his adapter. There have been no fitment issues with the right two parts in hand.

Forced induction cars won’t ever notice that flattened pipe. The cross section inside is about equal to the smaller, round end. This was discussed heavily early on. I even cut one apart and measured it. The cold side pipe is a zero HP part.

It’s just not needed. People see bigger and assume better…that’s rarely the case.

The shroud and lens is RB5Z-3530-AC

Have you Have you tried the dimmer?

The biggest you can go on the oem 21 is a 295/40. It’s actually pretty popular and looks nice IMO. The number is the load index…tells you how much weight the tire is rated to hold. The letter that usually follows is the speed rating.

V2 of moving my vent gauge to a blue cruise sensor is done. I dig this one.

Some may have seen my V1 prototype but the evolution of my Blue Cruise P3 Gauge mash up continues. The prototype was made by trimming the lens part of the column shroud along with disassembling the P3 display to cut the tinted cover to fit the cutout in the lens. Clear as mud? See pic below...

That’s not how they rate power.

Tires are on. I’m not in love. My Pirelli 315’s were a much better fit. These Yokohama’s are WIDE. They’re a bit too far past flush for my taste. I’m gonna put a few miles on them but it’s highly likely I’ll go back to 295’s shortly.

WTF makes you think you have the right to dictate what other people do with their money? My ST is quicker than most Mustangs and a lot more comfortable…I’ll decide how I use it.