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Not for everyone...but I absolutely hate the rear wiper and never use it...so I eliminated it. Gotta order a smooth 7/8” rubber plug for the hole in the glass...but it already looks cleaner.

Any interest in some rear suspension parts? Trailing arms and toe links and possible brackets to run an adjustable rear shock? Possible a better front strut tower brace. I’ve worked with BWoody Performance testing some F150 parts a few months ago and was approached by them about testing parts...

No...but mine looks nothing like a PIU coming at you.

Look close at the rear panel...the Explorer letters are matte now. Just a little something I thought might look cool.

So loosen them up and then retorque. This isn’t rocket science. All I tried to do is tell people a way to install the springs easier and without a coil compressor. It’s not needed on the rear.

Not much happening...waiting on a couple small things and a couple big things. Roof rail delete parts backorder release date pushed back to 8/5 so still waiting on that. I did finally get it registered and got my plate on and did the TVD Vinyl inserts on the rear panel to match the gloss/matte...

The LCA is designed to move up and down, obviously. You’re not moving it anywhere it’s not already moving while you drive. I’m just saying there’s a slightly easier way of doing it without removing the entire shock or binding any bushings. I’ve been doing this for a long time...just passing on...

22x10.5 305/35

For the rear, remove the long through bolt on the outside of the UCA, unbolt the lower shock bolt and sway bar end link then pry down on the LCA with a long pry bar...pop the oem spring out then pop the new one in. That’s all it takes.

I’m gonna put together a little social distanced meet on the north side in the next couple of weeks.

It’s definitely not dropped.

In some cases, yes. On a 10.5 +30 wheel with drop springs they will likely rub the fender liner when turning. Perfect would also assume the owner was ok with giving up the gearing and taking the performance hit.

I weighed one of them on a certified scale at work...78.8 lbs. My current set up is 63.3 lbs...again I only weighed one.

+35 on a 10.5 would clear. The 40 would add a few lbs over the 35 but also put it in the worst possible place...not to mention the larger diameter would kill some gearing. The overall weight savings would be mostly negated by the larger diameter.

Is it Friday yet?

That will be dead flush.

Mine is +30 but my wheels are 10.5 wide. And I wrote that wrong...should have been +25, not 35. That’ll push the wheels out almost 3/4”...the front will still be tucked by about 1/4”

You might consider +35 on the offset to push them out a little more.

I’m gonna grab your exhaust too...especially if you do mid pipes as well.

Get that exhaust to market then shop for wheels. lol