Search results

Stiffer springs don’t necessarily handle better at the absolute limit…some body roll is actually a good thing in a big heavy car.

Stopping point for today…NavTV interface and amps are mounted and wired in and the power/ground blocks are mounted. All wiring in the back is complete…tomorrow I start on the doors. New Mosconi stickers for the amps are printed and on the way.

It doesn’t have to be exactly E50. I test my normal station every few weeks but my normal 3X a week fill ups I just calculate and go.

Vinyl wrapped is much better…that bare plastic wasn’t gonna work.

I can already tell you the AFe doesn’t come with anything but the piping to the turbos. The FenFab charge pipes are not included with his intakes either. Those are extra pieces you can have him fabricate.

Nah…I’m just old and have a lot of free time. lol

ABS plastic laminated to the frame for the DSP controller mount. I don’t think I like it much…gonna wrap it with factory match vinyl instead.

I’m getting the AFe just because I like the looks of it. If there’s any tangible benefit that’ll just be a bonus. I’m trying to not be embarrassed every time I open the hood. lol

Agreed. Don’t add holes.

The air intake snorkel is about half way up the grill on the drivers side…if you submerged that you ingested water and hydrolocked the engine. Best case scenario you pull all the spark plugs and turn it over by hand to force the water out and it’ll be fine. Worst case you ingested water and bent...

The backstory is…someone was on a dyno and took off the top of the airbox and picked up about 15HP…so yes opening it up can make more power. Now doing that anywhere but a dyno doesn’t make sense but still…it made more power on back to back pulls.

Mount for the DSP controller built today. I’ll cut and cover it with 1/8” ABS tomorrow so it’ll look like it was always there. Still have access to the USB and power ports behind it…barely.

Had a few minutes to spare so I pre-wired the distro blocks. I thought I had some 16g wire for the DSP and LED wiring but I’ll have to add that tomorrow then mount it in place.

Very nice. I had the exact same issue with the oem fittings up front. I ran out of time and haven’t had a chance to take another shot at it. I got the oem lines back on up front at least. I’ve been way too involved in the audio build but as soon as that’s done the rear 380 rotors and braided...

Knocked out a bracket to mount the main fuse at lunch today. It will mount using oem bolts next to the battery. Also got the stand off base made for the distro blocks. I need 3 each +/- for the amps but I also need to pull power for the DSP and lighting so I added another block for those and...

That was a small run, all were replaced and there have been no ongoing issues. I’ve had SPD DP’s in for probably a year and 20K+ miles with zero issues.

I forgot the ground. It’s a unibody car so I went straight through the floor pan. Ground the paint off on both sides, star washer under the lug and bolted in tight with a 10mm bolt and nylock nut with fender washers on the bottom side and sealed after with silicone.

Running cables today. Fitting 0ga power and three runs of 12ga speaker wire was a little tight on the passenger side but everything fit inside the OEM channels and under the 3rd row seat to aim at the amp rack.

Just normal plastic snap in grommets. I drilled them with a step bit.

I don’t think many people would be interested when they saw the cost. lol