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About a 3mm flat ended allen wrench to pop the spring loose through the 2 holes in the back of the steering wheel. It always seems to be easiest to do the right side first. Once you feel the spring push in on it while you slightly pull out on the airbag then repeat on the other side. Then it’s...

Waido-kits.com is the only one made for this car.

I have another one on the way also. Perforated leather sides, normal leather too and bottom with a red sight line again. I don’t really like how suede feels when I’m driving. Never posted the first one here I guess.

I like the ID Speed best due to the materials used throughout. The Steeda I’m not a fan of the poly bushings…I can see some extra NVH with the diff locked down too tight. AWR…it’s there for a low cost option but it’s cheap for a reason.

G2 caliper paint

M14x1.5

The strut tower brace? It’s just a cosmetic piece…you don’t need it at all.

99% of cars are gonna be maxed out in the -1° range or a hair more. That -.8° is the most I’ve ever seen posted and just a weird car or a fluke reading. -1° is fine…the front will be right around there too since it’s not adjustable without extra parts or my go-to…slotting the upper hole in the...

Unless Ford changed something…those are just part of the car under the trim. It’s been too long and I don’t remember but I was the 2nd or 3rd person to do this mod and the parts list is 4 part numbers. 2 front retainers and 2 trim pieces that run front to rear. Those 4 parts are all it takes to...

If you look around at other suspension posts back then you’ll see me talking about grinding the frame slots too. I also ground them some more a week or so ago to do some experimenting. I can get to +1° rear camber now.

The fronts are the only retainers. There are no center or rear.

Put your plans and info out on FB on High Performance Explorer ST and the Explorer ST Forum groups also. You’ll see a lot more traffic.

The wired connection is way more stable with less issues.

I went from 93 and no DP’s running 12.0’s and one 11.99 to SPD DP’s and E50 running 12.6X’s a couple years ago. I also added my full 3’ exhaust with the DP’s but that’s pretty much a zero power addition.

Multiple people have dynoed them in the 15-20hp range with a higher bump in tq.

You skipped over an E50 tune, IC and DP’s being a mid-11 second combo without needing the HPFP or injectors.

FFS man…do you want a tune or a reply to an email? Which is more important because the vast majority will say the tune is more important. If you want him replying to every email, text message, DM, smoke signal etc the same person sends asking the same question then I guess he should move his...

Get the street pack car. It has everything you want and if you don’t like the 21” wheels there’s a huge market for them and you get the upgraded brakes which are well worth the cost. Most sell in the 15-1800 range in good shape with newer tires. You could sell yours and pay for something else if...

Pretty much talks to himself. lol