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Get what kit?

If I had to take a stab at it I’d say 40K of the miles on this car are road trips. It’s super comfortable and stupid fun when you find a good road. Driving Route 66 in it last year was the most fun I’ve ever had on a trip.

Most things attached to the intake tract in new cars is for some kind of sound/noise control. That would be my first guess.

Fresh plugs, fresh oil, fresh balance on the tires, cleaned the air filters, greased up all the squeaky urethane bushings and put new ball joints on the front end links….97K miles and we’re heading out on another 3000+ mile road trip this Friday…we’ll be gone for about 10 days running throughTX...

When and where did I say that?

Tow haul has been proven unreliable by more than one person that works on these things for a living. Even techs don’t use that when they’re getting the trans fluid up to temp to check the level.

Grab a CV Fab intercooler…save some money…accomplish the exact same thing. Use code TYLERCLARK1 to save some off retail.

Nah…plenty of us have been running max effort 93 tunes plus spicing them up to E30 and also E50 tunes for years with no issues. Mine was tuned about 5K miles…I’ll roll over 100k on another road trip next week. Gonna throw a new set of plugs in it tomorrow because they are hard on those but...

The extra width will surely help with traction but I doubt your local shop carries them. Virtually everyone orders them from Simple Tire either directly or through eBay.

What is required for added strength?

I have…more than once. There’s no discernible difference even pushing the car hard enough for Advance Trac to reel it back in.. I also replaced the oem bar with a custom one that’s substantially more rigid…also no difference. The reasons for that are covered in this thread so I won’t waste my...

Perhaps you should read this whole thread then. After that go look at your car and look under the cowl panels. All strut bars for this car are cosmetic….thats all there is to it.

It only serves a cosmetic purpose

There’s the OBD plug, dimmer wire and a couple of 5V analog inputs. There’s no way to hard wire into the car to read PID’s. You can read add-on sensors….I read an ethanol content sensor on one of mine. You still have to plug the gauge either into the OBD port or a splitter to read PID’s.

You hard wired a P3 gauge into the OBD port to read PID’s? Post pics.

Here’s reality and you can choose to look deeper or not…but on no planet did you lower trans temps 30-40° with a pan swap. It’s literally not possible. I’m not gonna debate it all night…it is what it is.

I wouldn’t trust running a P3 and an OBD reader on a splitter. These pans have been discussed ad nauseam in my high performance FB group. Coolant t-stat is factory 180° so if you’re seeing temps under that and low trans temps…I’d question it. That’s not even getting into the well documented...

I see you bought into all the literature, but that’s not how it works. Feel free to ask anyone else running one of these deep aluminum pans what their trans temp is doing.

It may take longer to get up to operating temp with a deep pan, but it cannot possibly run cooler when the transmission is thermostatically controlled