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Transmission temp 195 F

3rd Rail

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#1
Was driving around town normally, and it was about 90 F out

and through FORScan my transmission fluid temp was at 195F is that normal?

it might have gotten higher but I got to work at that time.
 

Cruising68

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Not necessarily bad. In fact, too low a temp is no good either as it won’t cook off moisture and volatiles. IIRC trans fluid starts to break down over 220 degrees so you are well within range. May even be a bit higher with todays synthetic lubes.

I have never checked mine but now you have me thinking about it. Might have a look on my next drive.


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3rd Rail

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Thread Starter #3
Not necessarily bad. In fact, too low a temp is no good either as it won’t cook off moisture and volatiles. IIRC trans fluid starts to break down over 220 degrees so you are well within range. May even be a bit higher with todays synthetic lubes.

I have never checked mine but now you have me thinking about it. Might have a look on my next drive.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you get a chance please tell me your readings with ambient air temp as well. And length of drive from cold start.
 

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200+ is perfectly fine. These new transmissions run hotter than years past and the fluid is designed to handle it. My F150 would see 225+ on hard runs.
 

Cruising68

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If you get a chance please tell me your readings with ambient air temp as well. And length of drive from cold start.
Don’t have all the details you are looking for but I have been watching it on my gauge.

Within about 15 minutes of driving from cold start I’m around 185. After driving on highway for 30 minutes I’m around 190-195. If I’m having a little fun for a bit I see 205-210. Never seen higher than 210. This in 85-90 degree temps.

That range does not concern me at all.


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#6
200+ is perfectly fine. These new transmissions run hotter than years past and the fluid is designed to handle it. My F150 would see 225+ on hard runs.
Yup, 195 is operating temp.


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3rd Rail

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Thread Starter #7
Yup, 195 is operating temp.


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checked my temps again today and it was 85 to 90 out and after about 40 mins of normal driving my trans temp was at 210
 

Cruising68

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checked my temps again today and it was 85 to 90 out and after about 40 mins of normal driving my trans temp was at 210
I'd say yours are a tad higher than mine but I would not be concerned. Keep an eye on it. If you see it getting 220 or higher you might have an issue but i would chalk the difference up to slightly different driving conditions and weather.
 

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I'd say yours are a tad higher than mine but I would not be concerned. Keep an eye on it. If you see it getting 220 or higher you might have an issue but i would chalk the difference up to slightly different driving conditions and weather.
How fast do you drive on the highway normally?

i usually drive 70 to 75

i know that’s over the limit though lol
 

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I installed a PPE trans pan about a year ago and it keeps the fluid temp around 165F-185F, with stop and go traffic it climbs to about 210F on a hot day but cruising on the highway at 60mph will bring it back down to 180ish, the only down side is during winter it takes forever to heat up, one really cold day it barely got over 95F
 

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I installed a PPE trans pan about a year ago and it keeps the fluid temp around 165F-185F, with stop and go traffic it climbs to about 210F on a hot day but cruising on the highway at 60mph will bring it back down to 180ish, the only down side is during winter it takes forever to heat up, one really cold day it barely got over 95F
It may take longer to get up to operating temp with a deep pan, but it cannot possibly run cooler when the transmission is thermostatically controlled
 

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It may take longer to get up to operating temp with a deep pan, but it cannot possibly run cooler when the transmission is thermostatically controlled
That’s the the thing about a finned metal trans pan that’s cooled by airflow the fluid must go back into it even if the thermostat is closed it’s basically flowing back into a chilled bowl, doesn’t matter if the thermostat is opened or closed the fluid must flow back into the pan which is being cooled be the flowing air and the colder the air is outside the faster is will cool
 

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That’s the the thing about a finned metal trans pan that’s cooled by airflow the fluid must go back into it even if the thermostat is closed it’s basically flowing back into a chilled bowl, doesn’t matter if the thermostat is opened or closed the fluid must flow back into the pan which is being cooled be the flowing air and the colder the air is outside the faster is will cool
I see you bought into all the literature, but that’s not how it works. Feel free to ask anyone else running one of these deep aluminum pans what their trans temp is doing.
 

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I see you bought into all the literature, but that’s not how it works. Feel free to ask anyone else running one of these deep aluminum pans what their trans temp is doing.
I have a P3 gauge and an OBD2 reader running live data while I drive, my coolant thermostat opens above 174F while driving because it never drops below that but the lowest if seen my trans temp was 95F on 2F day in VA (granted I only drove for about 30 min) and these are the readings I’ve been getting for the past year I didn’t pull these numbers out of thin air, i didn’t trust the plastic pan so I simply looked up a metal version and bought it and installed it then proceeded to review it for a year and posting my findings that’s all, I also regularly drive from VA to NY and on a 50F day my trans temp hovers around 165F, so either the sensors in the car are lying or I bought some miracle trans pan
 

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I have a P3 gauge and an OBD2 reader running live data while I drive, my coolant thermostat opens above 174F while driving because it never drops below that but the lowest if seen my trans temp was 95F on 2F day in VA (granted I only drove for about 30 min) and these are the readings I’ve been getting for the past year I didn’t pull these numbers out of thin air, i didn’t trust the plastic pan so I simply looked up a metal version and bought it and installed it then proceeded to review it for a year and posting my findings that’s all, I also regularly drive from VA to NY and on a 50F day my trans temp hovers around 165F, so either the sensors in the car are lying or I bought some miracle trans pan
I wouldn’t trust running a P3 and an OBD reader on a splitter. These pans have been discussed ad nauseam in my high performance FB group.
Coolant t-stat is factory 180° so if you’re seeing temps under that and low trans temps…I’d question it.
That’s not even getting into the well documented issues running these cars hard before the trans is up to full temp which is 195-215°. Ask Adam at ZFG his findings on that….but cooler is not better. If you actually did never get up to full temp you’re just asking for shifting issues.
 

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I wouldn’t trust running a P3 and an OBD reader on a splitter. These pans have been discussed ad nauseam in my high performance FB group.
Coolant t-stat is factory 180° so if you’re seeing temps under that and low trans temps…I’d question it.
That’s not even getting into the well documented issues running these cars hard before the trans is up to full temp which is 195-215°. Ask Adam at ZFG his findings on that….but cooler is not better. If you actually did never get up to full temp you’re just asking for shifting issues.
The P3 is hard wired in and the pan has a NPT port for a temp probe which I’ve removed since the P3 gauge gives about the same temp, also I have the Platinum the hardest I’ve ever pushed it was 6Krpm it mostly cruises on the highway at 2Krpm, the car shifts amazing sometimes it feels like a CVT (once again a sample size of 1) I installed it for the hot summers and for some road protection, I’m not selling trans pans or being a fanboy I’m just posting my finding to people looking for information, it’s something I’ve tried for a year and I’m posting the results I’ve gotten, so if someone has $300 burning a hole in their pocket and is looking for one of these pans then is the results you could probably get or better or worst
 

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You hard wired a P3 gauge into the OBD port to read PID’s? Post pics.
 

Windsock007

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It’s a simple pigtail that comes in the box that you splice into the labeled wires and connect the gauge to instead on the OBD2 connector and the tutorial is on their website I broke 3 clips getting the dash off to do it I’m not doing that again for a simple pic if I do any other upgrades in the future what requires removing that part I’ll post pics of the install but the wiring diagram is on their website also
 

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It’s a simple pigtail that comes in the box that you splice into the labeled wires and connect the gauge to instead on the OBD2 connector and the tutorial is on their website I broke 3 clips getting the dash off to do it I’m not doing that again for a simple pic if I do any other upgrades in the future what requires removing that part I’ll post pics of the install but the wiring diagram is on their website also
There’s the OBD plug, dimmer wire and a couple of 5V analog inputs. There’s no way to hard wire into the car to read PID’s. You can read add-on sensors….I read an ethanol content sensor on one of mine. You still have to plug the gauge either into the OBD port or a splitter to read PID’s.
 



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