Search results

The group I run that deals with stuff like this would disagree.

I mean…Brett has sold tons of those things and everyone else got them installed with the provided hardware so…

Oh really? And it wasn’t you jumping in hawking exhaust systems either? This isn’t you?

The issue is you just blast in and start slinging your stuff while actively breaking the rules you agreed to when you joined my FB group. Your gender is irrelevant…you’re lucky you didn’t get banned altogether…I’m actually the one that gave you a pass.

I’ll cross 100K miles tomorrow…and I absolutely flog this car continuously. I’m on a 3000+ mile mountain road trip right now…beating the snot out of this thing. Not so much as a hiccup from the LCAs. Smart money says those broken ones were broken BY something, not just a random failure. Impact...

You use the Mustang front rotors as well. There’s a guy that makes and sells the caliper mount bracket to make it all work.

You can do the GT350 or 500 front Brembos using factory parts or SRT Jeep Brembos using Racing Brake rotors and parts.

S&B is what run now. I prefer a quiet intake.

Smart money would bet on that.

Yea mine I can hear now but before I cut the hood I’d have to roll the window down to make sure the Turbosmart valve was even working.

You won’t even hear it unless you have the windows down.

The afe rep is wrong…period.

This is pretty simple…don’t know why you’re making it hard. The CAI is just that…nothing else. It feeds air to the chargers. The hot side connects the outlets of the chargers to the inlet of the intercooler. The cold side connects the outlet of the intercooler to the throttle body...

I’d check the front inner CV joints first. They pop like crazy and feel like a rear end issue.

Been a long time…I honestly don’t remember.

Shit I forgot to reply to your message. Sorry. Anyway…if you’re fighting it pop the boot off the turbo, heat it up in some boiling water, dry it out and slip it onto the FenFab pipe first. No lube…the connection will pop apart under boost.

Yes. His cold side with BOV provision comes with all the parts needed to eliminate the oem bypass valve.

Yes…for early models that just want to get rid of the smashed plastic pipe. You’ll need the BOV version if you want to run his hot side.

For the vast majority they definitely are.

It’s smarter than we are…it won’t downshift lower than it safely can.