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Not to mention it stops just fine. lol I was curious where he was going with the “more fluid” line of thinking...it did make my eye twitch though. lol

Check out the thread about our Houston ST meet next Saturday.

I also have almost that long building my own exhaust systems...so I have an idea going in on what’s gonna happen. Please point out the high pitch or rasp...I’ll wait.

The EPB is the issue. Rotora has a work around for double what this cost me. I’m just not interested in $6-8K brake sets anymore. And I’ve had many. RB has a larger diameter rotor coming soon that will at least increase the brake torque for people interested in that. Little Shop did a workaround...

Brakes are done.

Brakes!

And a couple of filthy car finished pics.

Made my drive home with a little bed in time...stops like a dream. No 60-0 testing yet...hopefully this weekend if this rain will stay away. The only hiccup with my whole install was my own damn car. It went into EPB Service Mode just like it’s supposed to but using the Ford procedure it would...

Now the thing I see will possibly be an issue with oem wheels...these calipers are huge. I have aftermarket forged wheels that are cut for a big brake kit and I have about 3/16” clearance on the inside of the spokes. It’s close and I just don’t know how the oem 21’s are cut since I don’t have...

On the front you’ll need to trim the outer ends of the backing plate on top and bottom. Super easy with a pair of tin snips.

Install underway but I wanted to point out a couple of things. For the rear...stupid easy because all I did was a rotor swap. Done in 20 minutes.

I’ve only seen pictures.

I did that before I shaved mine. I liked that look.

Just don’t need your useless comments on my thread. And yes, this is actually my thread.

We don’t need to see anything. It’s already been worked out.

You don’t need them. They use a big body 400 cell cat...it won’t throw any codes.

It’s fine. Go worry about your fuel octane.

Working on a strut tower brace. I found the aluminum bar then stripped the paint and I’ll weld up the mounts this weekend.

It takes more skill than you’re giving credit for. Running in the 3’s at 200+ in the 1/8 takes about $200K worth of car minimum these days and you’re a literal split second from living or dying at any time. The tuning for everything from the suspension to the engine has to be literally perfect...

I drive mine pretty hard with a local group...the fade is real after long drives on curvy roads.