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Lowering Springs Pros and Cons

Toadster

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#41
how's the ride height with the Steedas? the only reason we didn't lower my wife's Focus ST was because of curbs...

is the EST still tall enough to clear curbs when lowered? not looking to slam the truck or do coilovers, but give it better handling... I do like their handling package https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-2...ling-package#/filter:ss_ymm:Explorer$253E2020

is it overkill?
 

UNBROKEN

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#42
how's the ride height with the Steedas? the only reason we didn't lower my wife's Focus ST was because of curbs...

is the EST still tall enough to clear curbs when lowered? not looking to slam the truck or do coilovers, but give it better handling... I do like their handling package https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-2...ling-package#/filter:ss_ymm:Explorer$253E2020

is it overkill?
It’s only a 1” drop…not a big deal. And that handling package is laughable considering the strut bar is a cosmetic only mod to these cars. Their springs are great and so is their rear sway bar.
 

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#43
It’s only a 1” drop…not a big deal. And that handling package is laughable considering the strut bar is a cosmetic only mod to these cars. Their springs are great and so is their rear sway bar.
That's what ours has, Steeda springs and RSB set to the middle setting.
 

BigAnt75

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#44
Lowered on H&R …should’ve come this way from factory and no issues whatsoever …. 3C4906AA-7C4D-491B-BEA2-3EF3DB00FB11.jpeg
 

2020FordRaptor

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#45
They are re-branded Steeda springs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Does anyone have the part number for FP springs? I can't find them online?
 

Toadster

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#46
Do you need realignment with lowered springs?
 

GearHead_1

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#48
It's a good idea to have it checked.
 

SmittysST

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#51
Damn tuff choice here, H&R or Steeda????? HHHmmmm
 

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#52
Quick question for those with H&R springs. @pelotonracer2 mentioned his bottomed out when going over speed bumps, since he hasn't been seen in a while, has anyone else experiences this? I like the look of the H&R but if they bottom out easily it automatically rules them out of my book.
 

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#53
Damn tuff choice here, H&R or Steeda????? HHHmmmm
If you're going to tow I'd go with Steeda. Steeda maintains the factory rake in proportion to the lowering. Gives you a little more suspension travel. If you're going full aggressive street look H&R is the way to go.
 

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#54
Quick question for those with H&R springs. @pelotonracer2 mentioned his bottomed out when going over speed bumps, since he hasn't been seen in a while, has anyone else experiences this? I like the look of the H&R but if they bottom out easily it automatically rules them out of my book.
Almost 14K on my H&R's and I've never experiened them bottoming out, but I slow down over speed bumps. Took a few road trips with no issues, and the roads are bad in Salt Lake City and Denver. It may depend on how you plan on using the ST like @mwinn said.
 

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#55
I just ordered the Steeda springs and sway bar kit and was wondering if anyone had issues with getting an alignment?
 

UNBROKEN

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#56
I just ordered the Steeda springs and sway bar kit and was wondering if anyone had issues with getting an alignment?
No man…you will not have any issues with alignment. Use a competent shop. This has been discussed a million times.
 

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#57
I just ordered the Steeda springs and sway bar kit and was wondering if anyone had issues with getting an alignment?
When installing the front springs best to use non splined (New Service) HB2 bolts as recommended by Ford, they allow freedom of movement for front camber adjustment, also don't forget to have your suspension bushings "Clocked".

A competent shop will know to do both.


1693203449823.png
 

UNBROKEN

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#59
When installing the front springs best to use non splined (New Service) HB2 bolts as recommended by Ford, they allow freedom of movement for front camber adjustment, also don't forget to have your suspension bushings "Clocked".

A competent shop will know to do both.


View attachment 19285
Those non-splined bolts don’t allow any appreciable adjustment. Tried that a long time ago. Easiest, cheapest way is to just slot the upper holes in the strut a bit with a carbide bit. I’m not a fan of camber bolts but I hear those exist as well. Most cars will sit -.8 to -1° without anything being done which is fine.
 

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#60
Those non-splined bolts don’t allow any appreciable adjustment. Tried that a long time ago. Easiest, cheapest way is to just slot the upper holes in the strut a bit with a carbide bit. I’m not a fan of camber bolts but I hear those exist as well. Most cars will sit -.8 to -1° without anything being done which is fine.
Thanks for the good input, I have lowering springs, sway bars and a strut tower brace to install, and then will perform the alignment myself. Was putting off installing because I could not see a clear path to the front end alignment due to the splined bolts, I thought the non-splined bolts were the answer. Will start installing the parts tonight.
 



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