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What Have You Done To Your Explorer ST Today

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191
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92
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27
Location
Mobile, Alabama
Vehicle
2025 Explorer ST 4WD
I’ve always been a Steeda fan, and I scored a great deal on the strut bar from a member here, so I figured I might as well go Steeda across the board. I’m warming up to the idea of lowering it, so Steeda springs are probably next. I just want to see how everything feels after this install before I commit.

Have also owned plenty of aFe stuff, good company. Actually running the panel filter now (non-oiled).
 

Messages
55
Reactions
34
Points
17
Location
Nevada
Vehicle
2025 ST
I’ve always been a Steeda fan, and I scored a great deal on the strut bar from a member here, so I figured I might as well go Steeda across the board. I’m warming up to the idea of lowering it, so Steeda springs are probably next. I just want to see how everything feels after this install before I commit.

Have also owned plenty of aFe stuff, good company. Actually running the panel filter now (non-oiled).
Ya I like the AFE in terms of the color and the mounting hardware looked good.

Screenshot 2025-12-06 at 6.59.26 AM.png

For the strut tower bar I'll likely go aFe because the mounting points do not use a spacer but a properly formed bracket on both bolts.

Screenshot 2025-12-06 at 6.59.09 AM.png
 

Cdubya

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Location
NE Ohio
Vehicle
2020 Explorer ST
I’ve always been a Steeda fan, and I scored a great deal on the strut bar from a member here, so I figured I might as well go Steeda across the board. I’m warming up to the idea of lowering it, so Steeda springs are probably next. I just want to see how everything feels after this install before I commit.

Have also owned plenty of aFe stuff, good company. Actually running the panel filter now (non-oiled).
I was a Steeda fan too. This time, went with Eibach springs and AFe rear sway bar. Would highly recommend you go in that direction. I kept my Steeda strut tower brace v.1 and still love it--it does have spacers but I've never had to remove it so no big deal. Also got the Steeda subframe bushing support kit. Not a fan of the JXB insert so won't be getting one.
 

Combatvet

Member
U.S. Army Veteran
Messages
144
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54
Points
27
Location
Texas
Vehicle
2025 Explorer ST
I’ve always been a Steeda fan, and I scored a great deal on the strut bar from a member here, so I figured I might as well go Steeda across the board. I’m warming up to the idea of lowering it, so Steeda springs are probably next. I just want to see how everything feels after this install before I commit.

Have also owned plenty of aFe stuff, good company. Actually running the panel filter now (non-oiled).

I went with Eibach even though Steeda was my first consideration. I don't know how Steeda rides, but the Eibach springs are perfect in my opinion.

As for the Steeda strut tower brace, I'm likely going to sell mine, and install a Houston Speed Freaks one. They just look better!
 

Cdubya

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NE Ohio
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2020 Explorer ST
I went with Eibach even though Steeda was my first consideration. I don't know how Steeda rides, but the Eibach springs are perfect in my opinion.
The Steeda springs definitely ride firmer. The Eibach is more comfortable and looks better--I do feel it has a "jiggly" feel to the ride though, maybe because they are softer. I even have new PIU struts/shocks.
 

Combatvet

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U.S. Army Veteran
Messages
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Location
Texas
Vehicle
2025 Explorer ST
The Steeda springs definitely ride firmer. The Eibach is more comfortable and looks better--I do feel it has a "jiggly" feel to the ride though, maybe because they are softer. I even have new PIU struts/shocks.
I had the Steeda rear sway bar installed, and I don't feel that. I will be adding more suspension mods, but tune from Livernois is next.
 

Messages
191
Reactions
92
Points
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Location
Mobile, Alabama
Vehicle
2025 Explorer ST 4WD
It def feels better in turns now. I have to decide spring shock strut combo next. I love eibach but I may just go all steeda.

I want lower center of gravity but close to current ride. Not trying to ride like a mini truck with a 4” drop lol
 

Messages
250
Reactions
171
Points
37
Location
Charlotte
Vehicle
2024 Explorer ST
It def feels better in turns now. I have to decide spring shock strut combo next. I love eibach but I may just go all steeda.

I want lower center of gravity but close to current ride. Not trying to ride like a mini truck with a 4” drop lol
Springs, rear sway, and don't forget subframe lockouts. Changes everything for the better in terms of handling without much sacrifice in comfort either.
 

FireDogATL

New Member
Firefighter
Messages
15
Reactions
7
Points
2
Location
ATL
Vehicle
'25 Explorer ST
Potentially fixed the leak on my passenger side from an improperly installed drain line.

Also added a kicker key500.1 and 12 in sub to the storage compartment.
IMG_6167.jpeg

Last project was add a flush mount bass knob to the headlight controller. Simple mod and I did this to my Bronco too.
IMG_6165.jpeg
 

Combatvet

Member
U.S. Army Veteran
Messages
144
Reactions
54
Points
27
Location
Texas
Vehicle
2025 Explorer ST
Potentially fixed the leak on my passenger side from an improperly installed drain line.

Also added a kicker key500.1 and 12 in sub to the storage compartment.
View attachment 32698

Last project was add a flush mount bass knob to the headlight controller. Simple mod and I did this to my Bronco too.
View attachment 32699

Details man, I need details. How did you route it to your sound system? Did you have to buy any special add on's. What model sub, etc.......... Details man! Thanks!!!
 

FireDogATL

New Member
Firefighter
Messages
15
Reactions
7
Points
2
Location
ATL
Vehicle
'25 Explorer ST
Details man, I need details. How did you route it to your sound system? Did you have to buy any special add on's. What model sub, etc.......... Details man! Thanks!!!
Amp was from Plug and Play kits with the speaker level wiring harness inputs going to the DSP kicker key. Plugs right in between the factory amp (and head unit?) and provides remote turn on for the 500.1 so just need to run power. The ground is close by under the trim covering the hatch. Only need to remove the trim on the rear hatch and driver side 3rd row cup holder to access the factory amp and run ground and harness wires. Haven’t calibrated the DSP on the 500.1 it yet, but I’m rarely above 15 volume level. But it booms with the kicker 48TRTP122 box. I ordered a second kicker 12” box with a less powerful Kicker Comp 4ohm box just to see if it would be louder than the passive radiator one. Haven’t tried the 4ohm one yet. Both were on sale for Cyber Monday but are $40+ more now.

Ran the 8guage power wire from the passenger side through a grommet just under the airbox. Was a pain to get it run to it and barely had enough wire to run from the battery to the trunk on the driver side. Don’t think I’ll run a bigger amp, so this works.

I’m actually more happy that i found the potential leak in my floorboard.
 

FireDogATL

New Member
Firefighter
Messages
15
Reactions
7
Points
2
Location
ATL
Vehicle
'25 Explorer ST
Details man, I need details. How did you route it to your sound system? Did you have to buy any special add on's. What model sub, etc.......... Details man! Thanks!!!
Amp was from Plug and Play kits with the speaker level wiring harness inputs going to the DSP kicker key. Plugs right in between the factory amp (and head unit?) and provides remote turn on for the 500.1 so just need to run power. The ground is close by under the trim covering the hatch. Only need to remove the trim on the rear hatch and driver side 3rd row cup holder to access the factory amp and run ground and harness wires. Haven’t calibrated the DSP on the 500.1 it yet, but I’m rarely above 15 volume level. But it booms with the kicker 48TRTP122 box. I ordered a second kicker 12” box with a less powerful Kicker Comp 4ohm box just to see if it would be louder than the passive radiator one. Haven’t tried the 4ohm one yet. Both were on sale for Cyber Monday but are $40+ more now.

Ran the 8guage power wire from the passenger side through a grommet just under the airbox. Was a pain to get it run to it and barely had enough wire to run from the battery to the trunk on the driver side. Don’t think I’ll run a bigger amp, so this works.

I’m actually more happy that i found the potential leak in my floorboards.
 

FireDogATL

New Member
Firefighter
Messages
15
Reactions
7
Points
2
Location
ATL
Vehicle
'25 Explorer ST
Oh - and flush mount bass knob was run on the driver’s side away from power. You can disassemble the knob by turning it all the way “on” and then pull the knob off. It’s held into the kicker housing by a washer and 10mm nut. Loosen those and the circuitry slides out. Drill a big enough hole for just the knob to go though the light switch, replace the washer / nut and then the knob and you’re golden.
 

Nascarbilly

Member
U.S. Navy Veteran
Law Enforcement
Messages
315
Reactions
227
Points
37
Location
Sacramento, CA
Vehicle
2025 Rapid Red Explorer ST
Added the illuminated keypad that wasn’t on my 25. Also got a really cheap ST key fob back to correct a wrong by Ford with some of the later 25’s. View attachment 32603
@ FireDog ATL: Well spoken about the FOBs and Ford's slight error. I finally ordered mine, should be here in a couple days
 



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