Recent content by MattC0509

Well first off thank you everyone for the support in this. Secondly the last little hail Mary that happened to be free was the answer. When I swapped the battery I only loosened the two nuts circled in yellow and obviously the one securing the the positive terminal. Well turns out the one...

I'm thinking the original was/is good as well. I had to get the extended license for Forscan to update battery charge but unfortunately that made no difference. Still getting 12.2v. I've made an appointment with a local shop to try to sort it out for me tomorrow as I've bugged way too many...

So I was able to pick up a BMS sensor at local Ford dealer and I'm back down to 12.2v so that was not in fact bad. Also in my Forscan I do not seem to have the option to change battery state of charge. I'm not on an OE alternator at the moment as there were none available not just close by but...

Good morning and thank you for getting back quickly on this yesterday. I disconnected the wiring to the BMS sensor at the negative terminal and had immediate start up with my battery light and charging system warning going away. Once hooked up and running Forscan I was getting 13.4v at idle to...

Where is the BMS connection? Assuming I can still look in forscan to see voltage at the battery? Also Forscan to change state of charge?

Yeah I've done multiples now in Forscan between the battery change and alternator changes. Got the second new alternator in around lunch and went and drove 5 miles...did the BMS reset and the car died in the middle of it.

The battery is an Interstate AGM from Costco and the guy at Pep Boys felt like the charge on it was good and issues were coming from the alternator. There's clearly a gremlin somewhere in the system but unsure what else to look for.

Thanks for the info and I did get it figured out. Unfortunately charging issues never went away. Got in down the street to a local Pep boys and the alternator was testing as bad only putting out 12.4v under load. Seemed odd that a brand new alternator could be bad right out of the box but...

I have a 2020 ST with 54k miles and recently had to replace the battery for a second time. Shortly there after I received intermittent warnings about checking the 12v charging system. This persisted for about a week with no issues start up or other wise. It became a consistent warning that...

Yeah got it back in today and they did confirm a bolt wasn't tightened correctly on one of the arms allowing movement. At the same time they discovered the differential leaking again so back to the drawing board and replacing more parts. They should have done the alignment to begin with but it...

Sounds good and thanks again for the quick replies.

Thanks for the quick feedback @UNBROKEN. I was hoping to hear from you on this. If you were looking for something to assess is there anything you might check? I'm currently at 54k miles and have had HR springs and steeda rear sway bar since 4k so I know how it should feel and briefly getting...

My explorer was just in for 30 days for originally a leaking rear differential(again) but they ended up rebuilding most of the transmission as well. Since picking it up yesterday the rear end feels almost like it's floating and moving around dramatically. A mix of the rear tramlining and...

This morning I cleared all the dtc's and then in the service section ran a few of the ABS service resets. Took it out and performed multiple stops at varying speeds of upwards of 60mph with no issues, lights or questionable pedal feel. Hopefully it's good to go and no more gremlins in the system.

So I used the Forscan brake bleed procedure and double checked fluid levels and "believe" the lines are all free of air. Got the truck down and back on the ground with no lights on. I pulled down the street and first stop at 10 mph Check Brake System popped up followed by the BRAKE light...