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UPR catch can and orange fitting solution.

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#1
UPR catch can done....and a solution for the orange tamper proof fitting everyone fights. Take a thin flathead and break that orange plastic bastard out of the fitting...just destroy it...you don’t need it. Then take the short hose with the blue connectors, clip the side like in the pic here and slip the blue part out...it then slides right in where the orange one was. Done in 5 minutes. The fittings are identical...only the orange and blue locks are different.
Wasn’t my idea...I just did it and took some pics. 3A8D22E2-390F-4978-ADAB-7BEADE2C5DF2.jpeg FC96298F-52B3-478B-8E90-01CB8D61E25B.jpeg 92C63378-786A-4196-A4B4-949AE27EE987.jpeg 35697399-A00A-48D5-9F67-0B1B3D16F3BB.jpeg 8B6CB620-F390-42D0-858F-32326299324D.jpeg
 

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#2
We’re you able to get the complete fitting off of the valve cover and then break the orange piece out or did you break it out of the connector while it was still on the valve cover?
 

OP
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Thread Starter #3
We’re you able to get the complete fitting off of the valve cover and then break the orange piece out or did you break it out of the connector while it was still on the valve cover?
Broke it out while it was still attached. Pick about 1/2 of it out and it’ll come off.
 

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#6
So there's almost no way the orange connector comes off? The UPR install video made it look like it was no big deal, but perhaps his truck still had the blue connector that's it appears like trucks are coming with. Apologies if I'm forgetting the details in the UPR video/instructions.
 

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#7
So there's almost no way the orange connector comes off? The UPR install video made it look like it was no big deal, but perhaps his truck still had the blue connector that's it appears like trucks are coming with. Apologies if I'm forgetting the details in the UPR video/instructions.
That's correct! The initial UPR video shows the blue fittings throughout. Even the folks on newer how-to videos and PDF instructions have not shown the whole process, and some have shown that they have broken the orange one's detents. IMHO the orange clips don't warrant your time and energy when you're already replacing the short line from valve cover check valve to the intake. There are two perfectly useful blue fittings on that line.
 

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#8
That's correct! The initial UPR video shows the blue fittings throughout. Even the folks on newer how-to videos and PDF instructions have not shown the whole process, and some have shown that they have broken the orange one's detents. IMHO the orange clips don't warrant your time and energy when you're already replacing the short line from valve cover check valve to the intake. There are two perfectly useful blue fittings on that line.
Unless you want to take the system off and put it back to stock; as in bringing it to a non-mod friendly service dept.
 

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#9
Gave up on the orange fitting for now. My ST is my daily driver, and I was running low on time to get kids (single dad) for anything go sideways. I'm ordering some different picks to hopefully help, but also a spare fitting from UPR in case I decide not to cannibalize the intake/passenger valve cover hose.

You really can't feel or hear anything with the picks to gauge whether or not your on the locking pieces...
 

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#10
Gave up on the orange fitting for now. My ST is my daily driver, and I was running low on time to get kids (single dad) for anything go sideways. I'm ordering some different picks to hopefully help, but also a spare fitting from UPR in case I decide not to cannibalize the intake/passenger valve cover hose.

You really can't feel or hear anything with the picks to gauge whether or not your on the locking pieces...
There’s three so if you find one, the other two are about 60 degrees to each side of the one you found. A pick was a bit hard to navigate around so I took a piece of coat hanger wire and hammered on one end to flatten it then rounded off the edge to fit inside the connector and the flat end can slip under one tab at a time.. Bend the wire 180 degrees So you can pull up on it and hopefully disengage each tab, one by one. I got two of them but the last one wouldn’t open up. I’m going to try again this weekend and if not, I’ll break it apart too.
 

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#11
There’s three so if you find one, the other two are about 60 degrees to each side of the one you found. A pick was a bit hard to navigate around so I took a piece of coat hanger wire and hammered on one end to flatten it then rounded off the edge to fit inside the connector and the flat end can slip under one tab at a time.. Bend the wire 180 degrees So you can pull up on it and hopefully disengage each tab, one by one. I got two of them but the last one wouldn’t open up. I’m going to try again this weekend and if not, I’ll break it apart too.
Nice thinking with the wire hanger. I mangled a hose clamp to get a better footprint on the tabs, and had little to no success. I couldn’t hear the tabs disengage. I compared photos from the UPR pdf, and thought I was getting there. The only time I knew that I had gotten one is when I let up on my upward pressure and they audibly clicked back down.
 

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#12
Nice thinking with the wire hanger. I mangled a hose clamp to get a better footprint on the tabs, and had little to no success. I couldn’t hear the tabs disengage. I compared photos from the UPR pdf, and thought I was getting there. The only time I knew that I had gotten one is when I let up on my upward pressure and they audibly clicked back down.
Yep! Same here. If you ease the pressure, they pop back in place. Curious how the service guys get that off. I’m not sure why they have it so tamper proof either. I think it’s only a minor amount of venting that goes through there.
 

zdubyadubya

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#13
Yep! Same here. If you ease the pressure, they pop back in place. Curious how the service guys get that off. I’m not sure why they have it so tamper proof either. I think it’s only a minor amount of venting that goes through there.
which begs the question, why bother? why not just run the single-sided catch can from JLT and call it a day.
 

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#14
I had the same issue trying to remove the orange fitting, my next door neighbor is a tech that works at the Ford Dealer and he looked at the “Book” and it says to break it off and replace with a new fitting. Kinda stupid that ford put a tamper resistant fitting on that end of the hose, be careful when you break it and not break the plastic nipple the connector Is attached to...... that would make for a very bad day.
 

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#15
UPR sells the simple locking fastener for 9 bucks. I broke the tab off the orange one to release it from the valve cover, then used a heat gun to soften the hose to remove the old 90 fastener and slide the new one back on. 5 minute job.
 

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#16
UPR sells the simple locking fastener for 9 bucks. I broke the tab off the orange one to release it from the valve cover, then used a heat gun to soften the hose to remove the old 90 fastener and slide the new one back on. 5 minute job.
What tab did you break off the orange connector? I thought I had it off after messing with it for a half hour and it clicked back in place. I started getting too pissed off to continue so I think I’ll break it off now too, just not sure where to break it.
 

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Thread Starter #17
Just start breaking the orange part. It’ll come off. It’s so hard because it’s a non-serviceable fitting...it’s designed to break to remove.
 

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#18
Just start breaking the orange part. It’ll come off. It’s so hard because it’s a non-serviceable fitting...it’s designed to break to remove.
This x1000.

What tab did you break off the orange connector? I thought I had it off after messing with it for a half hour and it clicked back in place. I started getting too pissed off to continue so I think I’ll break it off now too, just not sure where to break it.
Just take a flat blade screwdriver and start in where the orange mechanism is on the side of the connector. Just start gently prying the orange plastic part out and away. It breaks easier and into pieces quicker than you think. If you buy the new UPR connector, you don't have to worry about busting up the old 90* piece (which I doubt you would anyway), just don't go so hard at it and beat the piss out of it and possibly break the nipple off the valve cover. I don't know how that'd be possible, just take it easy, I guess.

I didn't want to sacrifice my old hose connectors, so the $9 + shipping for the new connector I could heatgun on made the install so much easier and braindead simple
 

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#19
This x1000.



Just take a flat blade screwdriver and start in where the orange mechanism is on the side of the connector. Just start gently prying the orange plastic part out and away. It breaks easier and into pieces quicker than you think. If you buy the new UPR connector, you don't have to worry about busting up the old 90* piece (which I doubt you would anyway), just don't go so hard at it and beat the piss out of it and possibly break the nipple off the valve cover. I don't know how that'd be possible, just take it easy, I guess.

I didn't want to sacrifice my old hose connectors, so the $9 + shipping for the new connector I could heatgun on made the install so much easier and braindead simple
That’s what I’ll do too; get the fitting from UPR and not sacrifice the stock hose and fittings.. thanks brother
 

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#20
This x1000.



Just take a flat blade screwdriver and start in where the orange mechanism is on the side of the connector. Just start gently prying the orange plastic part out and away. It breaks easier and into pieces quicker than you think. If you buy the new UPR connector, you don't have to worry about busting up the old 90* piece (which I doubt you would anyway), just don't go so hard at it and beat the piss out of it and possibly break the nipple off the valve cover. I don't know how that'd be possible, just take it easy, I guess.

I didn't want to sacrifice my old hose connectors, so the $9 + shipping for the new connector I could heatgun on made the install so much easier and braindead simple
Is this the fitting, 2025-40?
ED7D247F-8A70-41B5-A1DA-01AF7DAE7902.png
 



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