ZFG Racing Tune Review

[ZFGracing]

Good to know correction is minor. Whatever I hear is gone with the factory tune. It appears under 3k and moderate throttle typically.

In our tune, that lightly loaded area is going to be the stock borderline spark table and cylinder pressure limit no need to modify those areas tuning wise.

Sent from my SM-S938U1 using Tapatalk

 

[Gadgtfreek]

Great input.

 

[Combatvet]

Great input.

They are consumate professionals, you can tell by the responses and the level of detail.

One question though, should I submit a datalog once I have the NGK sparkplugs installed? Much appreciated.

 

[SugarMouth]

They are consumate professionals, you can tell by the responses and the level of detail.

One question though, should I submit a datalog once I have the NGK sparkplugs installed? Much appreciated.

I'll give you my unprofessional response.

If he did not see knock related to your factory plugs heating up to the point where they caused knock, then the colder plugs would not show an improvement and no adjustment needed. The cold plugs are a great insurance policy however and I would absolutely install them.

 

[Combatvet]

I'll give you my unprofessional response.

If he did not see knock related to your factory plugs heating up to the point where they caused knock, then the colder plugs would not show an improvement and no adjustment needed. The cold plugs are a great insurance policy however and I would absolutely install them.

Wasn't my post, I've never had a knock and always use 93 octane.

 

[Gadgtfreek]

I’ve been back and forth on the plugs.

And while I understand Adam saying sport isn’t meant for daily. It sure is fun lol.

 

[SugarMouth]

I’ve been back and forth on the plugs.

And while I understand Adam saying sport isn’t meant for daily. It sure is fun lol.

I think most people can get away without plugs because most don't stay on throttle long enough. For that smaller percentage that might stay on throttle for longer periods of time a colder plug would be important.

 

[Gadgtfreek]

I think most people can get away without plugs because most don't stay on throttle long enough. For that smaller percentage that might stay on throttle for longer periods of time a colder plug would be important.

That makes sense. I’ve run her to 135 and she just keeps climbing.

 

[SugarMouth]

Rev2 logs in. For S&Gs I sent Adam a log with high load, low rpm to see if he sees anything. I could not get it to demonstrate the sound I am hearing as predominately as I have heard but wanted to see if he sees any knock. This sound does not exist with the factory file so I am trying to figure it out. I will say the sound is quite a bit less with Rev2 than baseline or Rev1 so something has changed.

 

[CessnaDriver]

I think most people can get away without plugs because most don't stay on throttle long enough. For that smaller percentage that might stay on throttle for longer periods of time a colder plug would be important.

Yeah, that’s also been my view of it. I don’t really use all the power with the ZFG tune that often. I recently ordered some NGK plugs because it’s a colder plug, but it might not be really. The motorcraft plugs probably aren’t that bad. My 2016 Roush Stage 3 supercharger with 650hp ran on the motorcraft plugs. When I upgraded it to the phase 2 kit to make 727hp, Roush sent it with NGKs since they run cooler. But again that’s way more power than the Explorer will be putting out and Roush didn’t seem to see any issues with the Motorcraft plugs.

 

[SugarMouth]

Yeah, that’s also been my view of it. I don’t really use all the power with the ZFG tune that often. I recently ordered some NGK plugs because it’s a colder plug, but it might not be really. The motorcraft plugs probably aren’t that bad. My 2016 Roush Stage 3 supercharger with 650hp ran on the motorcraft plugs. When I upgraded it to the phase 2 kit to make 727hp, Roush sent it with NGKs since they run cooler. But again that’s way more power than the Explorer will be putting out and Roush didn’t seem to see any issues with the Motorcraft plugs.

It is all about time on throttle. If most do short blips I'd think factory plugs are decent especially with a moderate daily tune.

I installed colder plugs as insurance against knock in the unlikely event I am on throttle for a period of time. This also allowed me to tighten the gap to reduce spark blowout in addition to the colder plug transferring heat into the cylinder head more efficiently.

 

[SugarMouth]

Rev2 logs in. For S&Gs I sent Adam a log with high load, low rpm to see if he sees anything. I could not get it to demonstrate the sound I am hearing as predominately as I have heard but wanted to see if he sees any knock. This sound does not exist with the factory file so I am trying to figure it out. I will say the sound is quite a bit less with Rev2 than baseline or Rev1 so something has changed.

To update, logs are not showing an issue with knock. Whatever I am hearing must be something else otherwise we would see it in the logs.

I want to clarify the source of my observations are not confirmed and should not be assumed a result of the tune.

 

[Gadgtfreek]

After driving some with Normal now and getting used to the throttle difference, it really is a pleasure to drive and has plenty of juice when needed. Plus the 10R60 in mine, shifts like butter in normal mode.

 

[Gadgtfreek]

Just a quick update on running in Normal mode. I’ve pretty much gotten used to it now. It takes more pedal input, but the 10R60 is much more tame and pleasant overall. Cabin noise is also noticeably lower. I assume there’s more FENG in Sport mode (I haven’t dug into the details—I just know it’s there).


That said, it still moves when you want it to and is very smart about downshifting, in my opinion, while remaining smooth. I’ll probably see better MPG as well, which doesn’t hurt.


I know that at full throttle there’s no real difference between Normal and Sport, but it feels like once you get past ~50% throttle in Normal, it starts to ramp up aggressiveness more quickly than it does below ~25%. In other words, I don’t think you have to floor it to get a “Sport-like” response. As you increase throttle, it seems to progressively get more aggressive—but that may just be perception. Adam could explain that better.


Other than that, there’s not much more to report on the tune at this point. Money well spent.

 

[Gadgtfreek]

On Normal vs. Sport mode:

• Early morning commute (around 5 AM, light traffic): Normal, because it really doesn’t matter.
• Afternoons with moderate to heavy four-lane traffic: Always Sport. It’s more responsive when passing slow drivers in the hammer lane from the right lane, and it’s better for on-ramps.
• Interstate cruising: Either mode works fine. If you really have to get around someone going 70, and put it to the floor, both modes are "fast".

My commute is roughly 50% four-lane roads and 50% I-10. Running Sport 100% of the time, I see about a 365-mile range. In Normal 100%, it’s closer to 390 miles. Mileage doesn’t really matter to me—I care more about the driving experience.


If I were just messing around from a stoplight and going full send, I’d probably use Normal since the shifts are more tame. For anything timed or competitive, Sport is the better choice.


Long story short, this has ended up mirroring how I drove my Edge ST and Mustang:

• Morning commute: almost always Normal
• Afternoon commute: roughly 50% Normal / 50% Sport

I also let the 10R warm up to operating temperature before using Sport. It shifts noticeably better once everything is warm, especially on cold mornings.

 

[ZFGracing]

On Normal vs. Sport mode:

• Early morning commute (around 5 AM, light traffic): Normal, because it really doesn’t matter.
• Afternoons with moderate to heavy four-lane traffic: Always Sport. It’s more responsive when passing slow drivers in the hammer lane from the right lane, and it’s better for on-ramps.
• Interstate cruising: Either mode works fine. If you really have to get around someone going 70, and put it to the floor, both modes are "fast".

My commute is roughly 50% four-lane roads and 50% I-10. Running Sport 100% of the time, I see about a 365-mile range. In Normal 100%, it’s closer to 390 miles. Mileage doesn’t really matter to me—I care more about the driving experience.


If I were just messing around from a stoplight and going full send, I’d probably use Normal since the shifts are more tame. For anything timed or competitive, Sport is the better choice.


Long story short, this has ended up mirroring how I drove my Edge ST and Mustang:

• Morning commute: almost always Normal
• Afternoon commute: roughly 50% Normal / 50% Sport

I also let the 10R warm up to operating temperature before using Sport. It shifts noticeably better once everything is warm, especially on cold mornings.

It is a different shift strategy cold. In sport mode below a certain tempature it won't even attempt to us the aggressive trans tune. Then above a certain temperature but below about 145 degrees it's using different parts of the tables. After that it's all in the correct tables. You are looking for a trans temp of at least 165 to be "fully warmed up and ready"

Sent from my SM-S938U1 using Tapatalk

 

[Gadgtfreek]

Thanks. I am assuming 165 is when it hits its "normal" point on the digital bar gauge? I don't have a way of knowing what that temp actually is. As far as the 10R's wonky behavior when cold, I should have said that's not tune-related. I've seen issues with Sport Mode in all these Fords(stock) I have had when the transmission is cold.