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Highest mileage tuned
- Thread starter ShawnP86
- Start date
If you go with ZFG or Goose, just tell them you're looking for a daily driver. I submitted my stuff to ZFG this morning. I always use 93 octane in EcoBoosts, so I told them I want a 93 tune, daily driver setup, no drag racing or crazy mods, and I want to see the transmission gear selector all the time. Just reliable, better transmission tuning, and more horsepower and torque. Also, no towing planned.
If you want a really safe tune, just wait for Ford Performance; it probably has half the power but still has some juice. I don't worry about these motors anyway, on a tune. Transmission? It's always a point that COULD let you down. I'm also a 3-4 year person who trades vehicles, about 10k miles a year. So tunes usually aren’t an issue for me anyway. If it fails in the first 40-50k miles, and you don't drag race it, it was gonna fail anyway IMO.
If you want a really safe tune, just wait for Ford Performance; it probably has half the power but still has some juice. I don't worry about these motors anyway, on a tune. Transmission? It's always a point that COULD let you down. I'm also a 3-4 year person who trades vehicles, about 10k miles a year. So tunes usually aren’t an issue for me anyway. If it fails in the first 40-50k miles, and you don't drag race it, it was gonna fail anyway IMO.
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Depends how to treat it and how often you use the additional power. Typically plugs, engine/tranny/diff mounts/bushings will wear faster for example. Install supporting mods (Intercooler, colder plugs, diff brace) and limit launching the vehicle and you can expect a good life out of it. IMO launches are a good way to shorten the life of the drivetrain.
Shorten factory service recommendations as well. Change fluids prior to Ford's recommendation and that also goes for plugs.
Shorten factory service recommendations as well. Change fluids prior to Ford's recommendation and that also goes for plugs.
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From my reading, I get they all have problems (Look at Chevy and Yota's engine replacement), but the 2.7/3.0 are pretty durable engines. And the 10R had some design issues in the beginning, but overall it's a pretty good transmission.
And from my reading, while tuned and parted up, it may exceed the tq ratings, that tq rating is full load (towing), which is why if you just run it tuned and don't romp under full rated weight, it should hold. Plus whatever fidge factor is built into the 10R60 numbers. Guys are running whippled Coyotes and 10R80's common place now.
And from my reading, while tuned and parted up, it may exceed the tq ratings, that tq rating is full load (towing), which is why if you just run it tuned and don't romp under full rated weight, it should hold. Plus whatever fidge factor is built into the 10R60 numbers. Guys are running whippled Coyotes and 10R80's common place now.
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The car still has 140,000 miles on it, and has ran 10s over 40 times, on the:
Stock motor
Stock trans
Stock turbos
His car has probably seen more abuse than most cars will ever see in the last 10,000 miles.
I know this platform isn't used to seeing this type of consistency all while keeping the cars alive, but it's completely relevant to what the OP is asking.
I have tons of other customers who have 50-60,000 miles now. Again, that's easy stuff.
This is just special.
Stock motor
Stock trans
Stock turbos
His car has probably seen more abuse than most cars will ever see in the last 10,000 miles.
I know this platform isn't used to seeing this type of consistency all while keeping the cars alive, but it's completely relevant to what the OP is asking.
I have tons of other customers who have 50-60,000 miles now. Again, that's easy stuff.
This is just special.
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Because it's factual, I do.
I've done everything I've needed to do with my ST, so I no longer needed it. I have almost a dozen R&D vehicles, I can't drive them all.
I'm not sure what you're talking about as far as pedestals are concerned. I'm not talking about me, you are.
I'm just stating facts about Luke's car and staying on topic. Sorry that it bothers you so much that we went so fast, so quickly, this past summer.
I've done everything I've needed to do with my ST, so I no longer needed it. I have almost a dozen R&D vehicles, I can't drive them all.
I'm not sure what you're talking about as far as pedestals are concerned. I'm not talking about me, you are.
I'm just stating facts about Luke's car and staying on topic. Sorry that it bothers you so much that we went so fast, so quickly, this past summer.
I understand that no tuner wants a customer to suffer an engine failure, but we need to acknowledge something important: there are countless variables that come into play after a tuner completes the datalogs and confirms that your calibration is optimized.
If nothing unusual occurred during the revision process, it is assumed that everything is functioning correctly. However, from that point forward, it is the owner’s responsibility to ensure that the vehicle continues to operate properly. Many people do not know how to interpret datalogs, do not understand what a VE table is, how the air-fuel mixture behaves, or which parameters are critical to monitor. Many engines show early signs that something has changed, and owners simply ignore them.
Any good tuner must understand the limits of an engine, and unfortunately, that knowledge often comes with experience and sacrifice. It is the classic “pay to play.” If someone wants complete peace of mind, then they should leave the engine stock.
That said, I believe tuners such as ZFG, Goose, Livernois, TunePlus, and ECT keep their calibrations within the safest possible ranges for daily use.
Every tuned vehicle requires additional care compared to a stock vehicle, and many users overlook this reality.
If nothing unusual occurred during the revision process, it is assumed that everything is functioning correctly. However, from that point forward, it is the owner’s responsibility to ensure that the vehicle continues to operate properly. Many people do not know how to interpret datalogs, do not understand what a VE table is, how the air-fuel mixture behaves, or which parameters are critical to monitor. Many engines show early signs that something has changed, and owners simply ignore them.
Any good tuner must understand the limits of an engine, and unfortunately, that knowledge often comes with experience and sacrifice. It is the classic “pay to play.” If someone wants complete peace of mind, then they should leave the engine stock.
That said, I believe tuners such as ZFG, Goose, Livernois, TunePlus, and ECT keep their calibrations within the safest possible ranges for daily use.
Every tuned vehicle requires additional care compared to a stock vehicle, and many users overlook this reality.
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My opinion is that if you trash something in the drivetrain with a responsible tune, there are likely causes:
A) It was going to go anyway, and you just sped it up(maybe). Or it was just gonna go when it went, regardless of tune
B) Full sends, stop light racing, drag strip time, high rpm manual shifting, etc, will make it happen. It's a daily driver, not a race car
C) Other driver neglect
All of that being said, if you tune and mod a vehicle, you should always be able to afford a tranny or engine replacement. If that isn't in the budget, you are taking a financial risk.
A) It was going to go anyway, and you just sped it up(maybe). Or it was just gonna go when it went, regardless of tune
B) Full sends, stop light racing, drag strip time, high rpm manual shifting, etc, will make it happen. It's a daily driver, not a race car
C) Other driver neglect
All of that being said, if you tune and mod a vehicle, you should always be able to afford a tranny or engine replacement. If that isn't in the budget, you are taking a financial risk.
