Audio system prep...sound deadening project.

[ConspicuousConsumption]

Thank you. That’s very helpful. I’ve been driving myself crazy planning my sound treatment plan, particularly about MLV. I’m gonna stick with CLD and CCF for my first attack.
thanks again. Also, I have no idea how you got the panels back on with thinsulate covering so much but damn that’s cool

 

[UNBROKEN]

Thank you. That’s very helpful. I’ve been driving myself crazy planning my sound treatment plan, particularly about MLV. I’m gonna stick with CLD and CCF for my first attack.
thanks again. Also, I have no idea how you got the panels back on with thinsulate covering so much but damn that’s cool

It compresses much better than CCF…it and similar products are becoming the go-to product for decoupling.

 

[ConspicuousConsumption]

It compresses much better than CCF…it and similar products are becoming the go-to product for decoupling.

i’m sold. Did you use the 200, 400, or 600? I’m ready to order thanks to you

 

[UNBROKEN]

I did the 400. The whole car is lined with it.

 

[Mikes 22St]

i’m sold. Did you use the 200, 400, or 600? I’m ready to order thanks to you

wow, so you are doing it ?? Nice ,
good luck . everything comes out pretty easy . just try not to cover the holes that the door panels push into to put them back on.It takes time but search around in the site and u wiull find all the info u need. It makes a diff thats for sure. I was looking at all of Unbroken pics and remembering all I did ! and what I didn t ! LOL... I com;pletely forgot the hatch . See Conspicous its easy to forget .. But use a heat gun in spots and it will flow on nice!!! Keep me posted how it goes!

 

[ConspicuousConsumption]

Keep me posted how it goes!

Yup, I already have a box of Noico from a project a couple years ago that was put on ice, so I'll use that plus the Thinsulate 400. I bought 20' of it.

I have small children and a busy job, so I don't know when I think I'll have time for this, but add it to the list!

 

[ConspicuousConsumption]

Hatch done. Probably 90% CLD, plus Thinsulate. Let me just tell you that unbrokens CLD work is incredible. He made it look easy.

 

[ConspicuousConsumption]

That Stinger stuff is like several other CLD/CCF combos. They work great for what they are.
My whole car is lined with Thinsulate now…it’s everywhere it can possibly be. Examples here: View attachment 19584

@UNBROKEN when you put that Thinsulate on there, how do you cut the holes for where the panel clips snap in? That was pretty tedious when I was doing the rear hatch, so I'm wondering about your process. I do like working with that stuff though!

 

[UNBROKEN]

@UNBROKEN when you put that Thinsulate on there, how do you cut the holes for where the panel clips snap in? That was pretty tedious when I was doing the rear hatch, so I'm wondering about your process. I do like working with that stuff though!

I use one of those small snap blade retractable knives…they have a really nice, long pointed end that slips right through. Whatever you do…don’t ever try to drill through it. I learned that the hard way.

 

[Woppenheimer]

Was looking for more bass in my 23 so I threw a cx 1200.1 and 12" l7sencloure in. Now I'm looking to run deadening. Unbroken, thanks for the insights on your process. A bit much for what I'm after but def taking the advice and moving from ccf to thinsulate for the doors and rear hatch/floor.

 

[ConspicuousConsumption]

A bit much for what I'm after but def taking the advice and moving from ccf to thinsulate for the doors and rear hatch/floor.

That’s what I thought as of a month ago, but once you start pulling panels you’ll see that there’s no sense in half assing it. I’m not gonna shoot for his level, but might as well do it well.

 

[ConspicuousConsumption]

That Stinger stuff is like several other CLD/CCF combos. They work great for what they are.
My whole car is lined with Thinsulate now…it’s everywhere it can possibly be. Examples here: View attachment 19584

is it a problem to cover electronics with the Thinsulate? I don’t want to start a fire lol. I’m mainly thinking about this thing in the driver side rear wheel arch:

 

[ferneyhough]

Hey unbroke

I use one of those small snap blade retractable knives…they have a really nice, long pointed end that slips right through. Whatever you do…don’t ever try to drill through it. I learned that the hard way.

hey UNBROKEN just wondering how you put back in the tabs you pop off to release the glass & also how the white track guides get reinstalled. Only asking because they look like they fall off the track. Thank you.

 

[UNBROKEN]

The glass just snaps back in and I didn’t mess with the tracks at all. It’s been a long time and memory fades but I don’t recall any weird stuff happening.

 

[spike5150]

To remove the window regulator you have to GENTLY push the tabs out of the holes in the brackets attached to the bottom of window glass. The white tracks do not come off. I broke one of the white tabs and had to buy a whole new window regulator which is that entire plastic black panel attached to the door.

https://www.foexplorer.com/ford_exp...ont_door_window_regulator_and_motor-1319.html

 

[ferneyhough]

The glass just snaps back in and I didn’t mess with the tracks at all. It’s been a long time and memory fades but I don’t recall any weird stuff happening.

Thank you very much. I appreciate the timely feedback.

 

[ferneyhough]

To remove the window regulator you have to GENTLY push the tabs out of the holes in the brackets attached to the bottom of window glass. The white tracks do not come off. I broke one of the white tabs and had to buy a whole new window regulator which is that entire plastic black panel attached to the door.

https://www.foexplorer.com/ford_exp...ont_door_window_regulator_and_motor-1319.html

Thank you very much. I will give it a go with what you & unbroken had added to this. I really appreciate your feedback.

 

[ferneyhough]

To remove the window regulator you have to GENTLY push the tabs out of the holes in the brackets attached to the bottom of window glass. The white tracks do not come off. I broke one of the white tabs and had to buy a whole new window regulator which is that entire plastic black panel attached to the door.

https://www.foexplorer.com/ford_exp...ont_door_window_regulator_and_motor-1319.html

How did you put the tabs back im that you pushed out from the glass.

 

[spike5150]

The tabs don’t come off. Here are some pics of the regulator I broke.

regulator from the front. The two pieces of white tape need to be peeled back to access the window tabs for release.


Here is a closeup of the tab you need to GENTLY push in to release from the window.


here is the backside of the regulator
View attachment IMG_2333.jpeg

here is a view of the tab you push to release the glass. Push too hard or too far and you will snap the brittle plastic on the arms.


After you reinstall the regulator, you just lower the glass back down and it will click back into the tabs.

 

[ferneyhough]

The tabs don’t come off. Here are some pics of the regulator I broke.

regulator from the front. The two pieces of white tape need to be peeled back to access the window tabs for release.
View attachment 29329

Here is a closeup of the tab you need to GENTLY push in to release from the window.
View attachment 29331

here is the backside of the regulator
View attachment 29334

here is a view of the tab you push to release the glass. Push too hard or too far and you will snap the brittle plastic on the arms.
View attachment 29333

After you reinstall the regulator, you just lower the glass back down and it will click back into the tabs.

man!that's awesome that you took lots of pics. I really appreciate you sharing your pics & your experience & your time overall. Truly grateful.