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What Have You Done To Your Explorer ST Today
- Thread starter TNSmokee
- Start date
- Messages
- 46
- Reactions
- 62
- Points
- 12
- Location
- Phoenix, AZ USA
- Vehicle
- '23 Expl. ST and '24 'Stang GT Prem., Rapid Red
Installed the new centercaps on the new wheels.
Ordered them from Etsy...
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1469732792/4pcs-set-mustang-high-quality-hand-made?ref=yr_purchases
Mine are 72mm; yours may be different.
These are self-adhesive, and they stick very well.. Have had them on the Ex for months.
Ordered them from Etsy...
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1469732792/4pcs-set-mustang-high-quality-hand-made?ref=yr_purchases
Mine are 72mm; yours may be different.
These are self-adhesive, and they stick very well.. Have had them on the Ex for months.
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You're not going to experience any more performance with the IC or the tower brace. The IC will help your engine last longer and help prevent heat soak. It's more preventative than additional. There are many upgrades that claim more HP but that is contingent on help from other mods. A tune is your first and best bang for the buck.
There's no bottleneck with the ST's intake, exhaust, turbos and intercooler under stock conditions. All those stock parts will flow more HP as is. It's the ECU programming that keeps the power back. That's why a tune is your first line of modification for more oomph. It opens up the possibility of adding more power.
There's no bottleneck with the ST's intake, exhaust, turbos and intercooler under stock conditions. All those stock parts will flow more HP as is. It's the ECU programming that keeps the power back. That's why a tune is your first line of modification for more oomph. It opens up the possibility of adding more power.
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That is all mostly true, and I'm already aware.
Honestly, the heatsoak and easing breathing was reason enough for me to do the upgrades. (Adding a tune in the future and unleashing tons of performance gives future benefits)
Can the OEM parts run at its current HP levels and above? Of course - it is the same for most powertrains.
The thing is that inefficient parts of the powertrain create parasitic HP/Tq losses, and inhibits performance of the engine at some points in the RPM range, etc.
Obviously, when you tune the engine's performance by changing the tune, you get "the most" benefit, so I wouldnt expect a lot, but there is a change.
As for changing the strut tower bar - HP doesnt influence its uaage nearly as much as hard driving/track days
Honestly, the heatsoak and easing breathing was reason enough for me to do the upgrades. (Adding a tune in the future and unleashing tons of performance gives future benefits)
Can the OEM parts run at its current HP levels and above? Of course - it is the same for most powertrains.
The thing is that inefficient parts of the powertrain create parasitic HP/Tq losses, and inhibits performance of the engine at some points in the RPM range, etc.
Obviously, when you tune the engine's performance by changing the tune, you get "the most" benefit, so I wouldnt expect a lot, but there is a change.
As for changing the strut tower bar - HP doesnt influence its uaage nearly as much as hard driving/track days
Yes, I'm sure you're aware of most of this. I've seen some of your posts confirming that.
And yes, if you're anticipating future upgrades/tune etc, then these other parts may contribute down the road. (so to speak)
For instance, I'll be upgrading turbos and down pipes in the future but I'll be keeping the cat back exhaust system stock only because I appreciate the quiet and in the same breath, won't at all inhibit performance even at that level. Stock exhaust will handle up to 700HP. Even out of the mouths of tuners, they don't suggest upgrading the air intake 'unless' you're going to upgraded turbo power levels or just like the looks and possibly sound of an upgraded CAI. They're not seeing the parasitic losses before that point. At least, not on the engine design. You'll run out of stock turbo before you run out of air intake.
In mentioning the strut tower bar, I'm only speaking of handling. Anyone who I've seen post here after upgrading says there's no handling difference. Most of that comes from upgraded sway bars, springs, rear subframe lockout kits etc.
And yes, if you're anticipating future upgrades/tune etc, then these other parts may contribute down the road. (so to speak)
For instance, I'll be upgrading turbos and down pipes in the future but I'll be keeping the cat back exhaust system stock only because I appreciate the quiet and in the same breath, won't at all inhibit performance even at that level. Stock exhaust will handle up to 700HP. Even out of the mouths of tuners, they don't suggest upgrading the air intake 'unless' you're going to upgraded turbo power levels or just like the looks and possibly sound of an upgraded CAI. They're not seeing the parasitic losses before that point. At least, not on the engine design. You'll run out of stock turbo before you run out of air intake.
In mentioning the strut tower bar, I'm only speaking of handling. Anyone who I've seen post here after upgrading says there's no handling difference. Most of that comes from upgraded sway bars, springs, rear subframe lockout kits etc.
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- Messages
- 475
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- 158
- Points
- 37
- Location
- East Freetown, MA
- Vehicle
- 2020 Explorer ST, Silver Spruce Metalic
This week I added a Mishimoto oil catch can, and finally installed my 2nd hand Whipple intercooler.
I also seapped the front blue oval with black while it was out.
A few things on the Whipple:
1. Rivets on the bottom of the radiator shroud are STUPID.
I drilled out the rivet holes larger, ordered a rivet nut gun and stainless hardware and installed M6 hex bolts
2. I was missing the blue nylon rings for the intercooler standoffs so I wrapped the posts in a bunch of teflon tape.
3. The Whipple also didnt come with a bolt for the MAP sensor, but the factory one threaded in.
I had it torqued down, but it still wiggled! I put a washer between the factory torx screw and the MAP sensor and it torqued down nice and snug.
4. The 10mm bolts in the wheel well for the fender, are awful. tons of loctite, and black oxide bolts lends itself to messy threads.... thankfully the bolts are set at a terrible angle, have rounded corners, and are a huge PITA
I also seapped the front blue oval with black while it was out.
A few things on the Whipple:
1. Rivets on the bottom of the radiator shroud are STUPID.
I drilled out the rivet holes larger, ordered a rivet nut gun and stainless hardware and installed M6 hex bolts
2. I was missing the blue nylon rings for the intercooler standoffs so I wrapped the posts in a bunch of teflon tape.
3. The Whipple also didnt come with a bolt for the MAP sensor, but the factory one threaded in.
I had it torqued down, but it still wiggled! I put a washer between the factory torx screw and the MAP sensor and it torqued down nice and snug.
4. The 10mm bolts in the wheel well for the fender, are awful. tons of loctite, and black oxide bolts lends itself to messy threads.... thankfully the bolts are set at a terrible angle, have rounded corners, and are a huge PITA
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Well, just yesterday I installed my whipple Intercooler into my 2023 Explorer ST. It might just be "placebo effect", but it does feel like I have more consistent power and maybe more power. So Far since December 2023, I have added a Steeda Strut tower Brace, Mishimoto catch-can, steeda vertical link brace, aFe momentum gt 5r intake, AWR Dif Brace and Lethal performance differential bolt upgrade. I have more to come in the future.
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