Rear end damage

[3rd Rail]

I don't see FORD offering anything but an e-brake re-flash. New subframes on all of the 252,936 cars involved would cost them 758 million dollars. Not happening ...

758 million is not much in the bigger picture.

 

[GearHead_1]

That's a huge amount in Ford's eyes until someone dies. Ford lost 1.3 Billion in 2020. Put that into perspective.

 

[CareerFiremanGuy]

758 million is not much in the bigger picture.

No company is going to spend 3/4 billion dollars on something that's only effected .09% of their product unless it involves a life threatening issue.

Exploding gas tanks, yes. Engines self igniting, yes. A bolt shearing, nope.

 

[CareerFiremanGuy]

That sounds reasonable they won’t be replacing the subframe however I’ve already had the park brake enabling upgrade done. Thats why I’m waiting to see what my dealer tells me.

I think your dealer is a bit confused. There is nothing else for them to tell you, the e-brake flash is the only thing FORD offers.

 

[KANSAS]

I find the interesting part on all this is that whenever a problem is found that causes a vehicle to lose power while driving, Ford always says that is dangerous and can cause injury or death. They then issue a recall to prevent that. In this case they do not say loss of power is dangerous (not to mention drive shafts possibly hanging loose), but the only danger is after you get it parked to the side of the road that the vehicle may roll away. I know this is all because of cost, and I am not personally real concerned about the problem, but it had to take a lot for Ford to ignore their usual safety procedures.

 

[Lightning Struck]

That subframe costs NO WHERE near 3 grand. That might be what the dealership charges you, but I guarantee Ford pays a small fraction of that for it.

 

[Cruising68]

That subframe costs NO WHERE near 3 grand. That might be what the dealership charges you, but I guarantee Ford pays a small fraction of that for it.

No doubt. I paid $1500 delivered. Sell was $1200, dealer made money on it and Ford makes money on it. I would guestimate the true cost to Ford to be around $400-$600. Of course there is labor too but Ford doesn't pay $145/hr for warranty work either.

 

[22 St]

I have my 2022 ST RWD coming in at the end of August. Was just built this week. If it comes with 1 bolt should I walk away and not purchase?

Does anyone have recent orders that have came with 2 bolt or are they all still being built with 1 bolt?

 

[GearHead_1]

1/3 bolt is all that is being offered at the present time. It doesn't appear that the 2/4 bolt will be coming back. I believe the Aviator Hybrid still comes with the 2/4 setup.

 

[JohnE]

I have my 2022 ST RWD coming in at the end of August. Was just built this week. If it comes with 1 bolt should I walk away and not purchase?

Does anyone have recent orders that have came with 2 bolt or are they all still being built with 1 bolt?

Keep it. It’ll be fine.

 

[Stone17]

I have my 2022 ST RWD coming in at the end of August. Was just built this week. If it comes with 1 bolt should I walk away and not purchase?

Does anyone have recent orders that have came with 2 bolt or are they all still being built with 1 bolt?

My 2022 RWD launch like a pig. No burn out and tire spin on take off.

 

[22 St]

My 2022 RWD launch like a pig. No burn out and tire spin on take off.

Dang, this thread is really making me not want it.
Getting it at MSRP then 1000 cash back on special orders. Probably going to walk away from it.

 

[TMac]

My 2022 RWD launch like a pig. No burn out and tire spin on take off.

Perhaps you could be more specific since you have first hand knowledge of a RWD platform? Did you completely disable traction control? Are you tuned? What RPM did you launch? That information is important. If you didn't disable the traction control, obviously, the ECU will go out of its way to limit wheelspin.

 

[Stone17]

Perhaps you could be more specific since you have first hand knowledge of a RWD platform? Did you completely disable launch control? Are you tuned? What RPM did you launch?

All stock. Launch at 2,000 RMP

I cant disable the AdvanceTrac (traction control ?)

Put ST in Sport Mode and press down on the traction control button for 10 SEC.

I get "AdvanceTrac On"

 

[KANSAS]

 

[TMac]

My untuned 4WD ST will bark the tires on take off if I turn off the the traction control and stability control. Yours should smoke the right rear!

 

[MAV]

New to my ST, and new to the forums, but I will say that I've done some extensive work on Ford IRS suspensions with my 2016 Shelby GT350, and one of the modifications I made to it recently might be a benefit to the "three-holer" ST owners. Here's a writeup I did about some improvements I made on my GT350: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/4-56-gears-and-qa1-carbon-fiber-driveshaft.174916/

About midway down that writeup, you can see the larger bolts I used in all four differential mounts. I haven't yet been under my new-to-me 2020 ST (which I assume does have the four-bolt setup), but I suspect that like the S550 Mustangs, the differential cover could be drilled and tapped for a larger bolt than what Ford used from the factory.

I'll dig into this deeper the first time I put my ST on the lift, but this might be something to consider for the three-bolt setup.

 

[FORZDA3]

New to my ST, and new to the forums, but I will say that I've done some extensive work on Ford IRS suspensions with my 2016 Shelby GT350, and one of the modifications I made to it recently might be a benefit to the "three-holer" ST owners. Here's a writeup I did about some improvements I made on my GT350: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/4-56-gears-and-qa1-carbon-fiber-driveshaft.174916/

About midway down that writeup, you can see the larger bolts I used in all four differential mounts. I haven't yet been under my new-to-me 2020 ST (which I assume does have the four-bolt setup), but I suspect that like the S550 Mustangs, the differential cover could be drilled and tapped for a larger bolt than what Ford used from the factory.

I'll dig into this deeper the first time I put my ST on the lift, but this might be something to consider for the three-bolt setup.

I think that’s a dang good idea. It’s likely what Ford is going to do to the LE vehicles and those that come in for warranty failures. Don’t know that for sure, but it seems likely and more economical for Ford vs subframe replacement. All speculation, but Ford likely had already considered the larger bolt option when they made the running change in production from 4 to 3 mount bolts.

Oh, and welcome to the forum!

 

[TMac]

New to my ST, and new to the forums, but I will say that I've done some extensive work on Ford IRS suspensions with my 2016 Shelby GT350, and one of the modifications I made to it recently might be a benefit to the "three-holer" ST owners. Here's a writeup I did about some improvements I made on my GT350: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/4-56-gears-and-qa1-carbon-fiber-driveshaft.174916/

About midway down that writeup, you can see the larger bolts I used in all four differential mounts. I haven't yet been under my new-to-me 2020 ST (which I assume does have the four-bolt setup), but I suspect that like the S550 Mustangs, the differential cover could be drilled and tapped for a larger bolt than what Ford used from the factory.

I'll dig into this deeper the first time I put my ST on the lift, but this might be something to consider for the three-bolt setup.

Welcome! A really nice write-up, but I'm not sure if it's entirely relevant. I don't think the ST with the current isolator has enough metal inside the isolator to install a much larger bolt, and while a larger bolt will certainly be harder to break, it hasn't changed the durometer of the single isolator- meaning the flex is still present.

Did this solve your wheel hop problem? If it did, the change in gear ratio would also have something to do with this.

Depending on the year, most of the STs already have a drilled and tapped second bolt hole. The problem is the subframe doesn't have the ring support for the second isolator. Some models also have a different differential cover with no provision or supporting bracing for the horizontal bolt. I haven't yet seen a really great solution for the single horizontal bolt- the AWR is probably best at this point, but according to @UNBROKEN another solution is on its way.

 

[MAV]

Welcome! A really nice write-up, but I'm not sure if it's entirely relevant. I don't think the ST with the current isolator has enough metal inside the isolator to install a much larger bolt, and while a larger bolt will certainly be harder to break, it hasn't changed the durometer of the single isolator- meaning the flex is still present.

Yeah, I haven't been under mine yet, so I don't know if the rear bushing is the same size at the bolt or quite a bit larger as is the case in the Mustangs. I also don't know if there's enough clearance to drill them out without lowering the subframe, so this suggestion may be quite a bit more involved than just installing something like the AWR brace or whatever Unbroken's solution might be. Same issue probably exists for drilling and tapping the hole in the diff cover, too. It's never easy to fix a problem the factory created by being cheap.

You won't be able to get away from the flex of the factory bushing unless you replace it altogether, and while there's a lot of urethane bushings available for Mustangs, I don't know if anyone is making differential bushings for the Explorers yet. But still, a larger bolt means a stronger bolt, and even though it's still flexing the bushing, it hopefully isn't breaking the bolt.

Did this solve your wheel hop problem? If it did, the change in gear ratio would also have something to do with this.

Don't know, as I haven't been back to the track to test it with the 4.56 gears (never had a problem wheel-hopping on the street). Probably won't go, either. I've long since outgrown the need to go to the track just to see if I can break stuff on my car. I can do that well enough on the street.