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The first Gen DP’s for sure will. The latest with built in flex joints I’m not sure.

Normal tools are all that’s needed. A swivel adapter helps on the rear plugs. Remove the strut tower brace and unbolt the hard lines on top of the engine for a little extra clearance. It’s a 30 minute job.

Honestly don’t expect much for that price. You’re probably better off adding a real sub, amp and interface and seeing how you like that.

Nothing looks better than the one you posted. Here’s mine.

And I’d bet you’ve never been in a car audio forum. It’s standard practice. In forums like this the knowledgeable people are told they’re wrong and the new guys do whatever they think is right. Sound familiar? lol

I without fail tell people to remove the oem sub when adding another one.

Textured matches the finish on the bottom of the car. Color match is the same color as your car body. Gloss black matches the trim on the car and is the best one IMHO. Carbon fiber is carbon fiber.

So go forth and fail then. Make sure you post the results here so I can giggle.

Let me type slower…like I usually have to do with engineers to get them to understand things. Remove the oem enclosure. Measure for depth and opening size. Fill it with water. Yes water. Measure the volume of water. Now you know the actual enclosure size. Now measure the port length and...

I can’t not point a few things out. Ummm, ok so many systems use multiple different sized speakers (i.e. house speakers, or I don't know, cars that have subs, 5" doors, 6x9's), frequencies don't change based on the size of the speaker that’s absolutely what happens. That’s literally why...

You’re right…I don’t have any idea what I’m talking about. Enjoy your exercise in wasting time. Don’t say you weren’t warned when you waste money on dismal results. This was my ST last weekend…I’m clueless when it comes to car audio.

Bottom line…at this point any tune will effect your aftermarket warranty and you basically have no factory warranty left to worry about…so there’s no reason at all to use the expensive, anemic FP tune.

Oh I dunno…using 2 different size subs playing different frequencies…cancellations…phase issues…the almost 100% chance you never measured the oem ported enclosure and aren’t actually matching a subs parameters to that enclosure. I could go on….

Don’t do that. There are rules to car audio and this breaks all of them.

UNBROKEN you say?

Not really. I run 36 cold. Not like it was a sustained run…maybe a couple miles at most.

Front door is laminated. Rear is tempered…unless they changed it. Either way it’s a 20-30 minute swap. It just snaps into the track. Take the door panel off, the inner door skin is held on with 1/4 turn fasteners. All the window mechanism is attached to that. …pop that loose so you can clean...

18” wheels with drag radials Fully gutted interior. Built trans All the 10 second ST’s are stock engines and driveline.

21’s should have 33

At WOT they’ll hit 150 in 7th. I just eased it up to 150 out of boredom.