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Changing those values won’t do anything. They’re set in the programming because they’re on other Ford vehicles, but if the vehicle programming is not set for it you can’t have it.

Remote tuning is far better than any local tuner. ZFG is the best tuner. https://explorerst.wordpress.com/2025/05/02/lets-talk-pcm-tuning/

Well unfortunately that’s the only way to do it. Forscan is pretty straightforward to use, all you need is a semi-simple understanding of computers.

Forscan can program the car to go to last used setting, which you can set as off with the dial.

The drains on a 2020 Ford Explorer ST are located in the front corners of the sunroof tray, running down through the A-pillars and exiting near the front fenders. There are also rear drains that route through the C-pillars and exit near the rear wheel wells.

-Tires: Pirelli Weatheractives are great tires! Michelin Pilot Sport All Season 4s and Continental DWS06 are good too -Tune: As far as if its tuned, you can see if it shows what gear the cars in in between the cluster -Downpipes: Yes those would be the downpipes -Sunroof: Yes that is a clogged...

Some people have done it on their base Explorers, and it looked really bad.

Ford is outrageously expensive. Just go to an local exhaust shop and if its a break in the exhaust welds they should be able to weld it back up for very cheap. Or just go all the way and get an aftermarket system.

Yeah I get that reaction quite a bit, especially when I slow down and get behind someone.

The reason why people haven’t had bolt snapping problems on these cars yet is either because: 1) People know the problem and immediately put on a differential brace 2) The people that run these cars hard didn’t upgrade because of no tuning 3) Ford new updated tune which pulls power from a...

It couldn’t void warranty because it won’t cause any problems and it’d hard for them to say it caused the problem. Here’s two articles I did that explains that: https://explorerst.wordpress.com/2025/04/17/lets-talk-differential-braces-and-why-they-are-needed/...

I do not recommend the Steedas at all. Worst riding from what I hear, drops the least, and rusts easily.

Shouldn’t. I never felt a difference between OE-spec camber and the new alignment. Always feels solid as a rock.

1" spacers all around and -.5 degrees of camber in the rear is perfectly flush. The reason why spacers that are 1/4" bigger in the rear compared to the front look to have the rear wheels sitting the same as the front is because of the weird OE-spec camber.

They fit but you'd want a quarter-inch spacer to make it perfectly flush. As far as rubbing, a 305/40 may rub a little, while a 295/40, 305/35 or 315/35 will fit perfectly fine.

I do notice when in Normal or Eco mode, the transmission is always in the highest gear, so when you go to step on it there is a delay as it fumbles to a lower gear. For example, at around 35 MPH it’s in 7 or 8th gear, and if you step on it it’s going to shift all the way down to 3rd or 4th. Or...

Unfortunately all of this is just normal for any modern vehicle. Shouldn’t be, but that’s just the way it is. Some of it is bordering nitpicking though, and I don’t blame you guys.

Nice! You shouldn’t break anything if you don’t drive it hard all the time…. But what’s the fun in that :-)

Yeah and yours has the different spare wheel too. Odd.

Well it is bad if an engine is blowing at 100k miles. I would understand normal maintenance but that’s not good.