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The clicking is a result from improperly torqued axle nuts.

Let’s go! Awesome numbers as usual!

Yep, and already running those times.

Yep thankfully! Thanks to someone at Ford who leaked some info.

Well the H&Rs or Eibachs don’t lower the car much more (I think it’s like .5 more for fronts and backs) and ride a lot better then Steedas. Steedas also have problems with their coating rusting out.

22x10.5 +30 is the perfectly flush setup that is perfect. Do you not want to lower the car too much? The Steedas barely drop the car and ride the worst compared to the other offerings. I myself would prefer satin black, doesn’t scratch as easily as gloss black.

That won’t work. But Aodhan makes the AFF7 in a 20x10.5 with a +35 offset which works, and is very close to the AFF3...

Yes that’s the powertrain warranty.

Bump: Price lowered to $1250, open to offers. If interested, shoot me a message and I am sure we can work out a deal! Really want to try and get rid of these.

Maybe these: https://germanspeedprecision.etsy.com/listing/1722317663

The UPR is a great option. Guess I forgot to put it in there.

That’s really stupidly high. Mine were at the correct PSI, although I keep mine around 38 cold now.

It’s covered under the 8 year/80k mile warranty.

Congrats and welcome!

You must put the defoulers on in order not to get get a CEL.

First part I knew just didn’t know how warm it should be, maybe just a minute until it’s off cold start high idle?

So the vehicle should be all the way up to operating temperature before using the extraction method? Never done an oil change like that and this seems like a simpler way to do it.

Even tuned cars with just upgraded intercooler and the ZFG sauce embraces suspecting muscle cars.

Yep, normal gains with a tune BTW too.