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If you like the looks of it then for sure it’s worth it. Just don’t expect any difference in handling. The real bracing for the strut towers is the triangulated tubing hidden under the plastic cowl panels.

Not taking responsibility for your own actions as a grown ass man is what’s riDICKulous. Like you have some right to do all the crap you mentioned to someone’s business just because they make you follow the rules you knew damn well you were breaking. Thank them profusely if they do cover it but...

It’ll be fine with full tread up front and bald rear tires. The stock tires aren’t 12/32 deep anyway.

I don’t believe so, no.

Yes the Steeda vertical link inserts are cheaper than billet links but only by 150 bucks. FenFab makes everything needed and I like supporting a small one-man operation when I can. His subframe bushing brake kit, billet vertical links and toe arms are top notch stuff.

That’s not “doing something”…that’s being a petulant child because you got caught breaking the rules and didn’t get your way. You tuned the car. You know it…they know it. If they don’t fix it under warranty that’s 100% on YOU. If you file complaints and other childish bullshit…that’s just...

The key cycle count is ALL they need. At that point what are you gonna do…sue them to make them prove it? It’s over if they decide to tell you to pound sand.

They’ve literally already proved it. MagMoss won’t help a bit when they already know he’s tuned.

First round of bodywork on the hood vent project. I’m super stoked with how it’s turning out.

It’s even better than I hoped…it was worth the effort to hunt down the Jeep hood even if it did take half a year.

Sanded, sealed and first coat of filler done. I’ll revisit this in January sometime to get it ready for paint.

The only way to do drive mode switchable tunes is to use one fuel like 93. E50 will require a stand alone tune…it can’t be mixed with selectable 93 tunes. At any rate…there’s nobody better than ZFG Racing.

Cut my hood up to do a factory look install of my Jeep Rubicon hood vents. I’ll start the finish work tomorrow….have to let the panel bond dry overnight

If you want to completely drain everything you pull the + and - wires off the battery and touch them together for 10 seconds or so. Same way it’s been done for decades.

Weird… I only see one in that whole post

Getting heat out of the engine bay. I just wanted to look factory.

I don’t know what’s up with images loading the last day or so. I’m not doing anything differently.

Here we go…test fit for placement. Gonna need a bigger hole. Bigger hole cut and edge flanged all around so the pieces fit flush. Final test fits. Panel bonded and riveted into place. Once it dries overnight I’ll remove the rivets then final body work can start.

I’ve always welded panels and I was ready to TIG these but a friend that does this stuff for a living said this is the way forward with aluminum.

Parts are prepped and ready…gonna try to get them fit and bonded in tomorrow or Sat then it’s gonna be ugly for a while. Never used panel bond before so I’m gonna drive with it a while in primer to make sure nothing cracks.