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The Fiesta and Focus ST’s have been around for years.

No codes here. Sounds like an install error.

Might as well

I was told in my FB group by the owner that I didn’t understand what was happening because I’m not an engineer and don’t use their fancy test equipment. Then they told me dyno numbers don’t matter on this as it’s an airflow thing and only track data matters…but they won’t post the before and...

I won’t rehash everything I said over there because it’s all posted there but my opinion is: Single digit differences in IAT. Less than 1lb difference in airflow lbs per/min. And a .05 improvement in track times that were different tracks on different days and refusal to post the pre-Big Mouth...

If y’all would…start your own thread for this stuff that has nothing to do with my build. Thanks.

To match the front it should be set to -.5° My guess is the shop you used doesn’t know where to adjust rear camber from. Tell them the adjustment point is where the upper control arm bolts to the frame…way up high above the exhaust…and to try again.

There’s a lot of great tuners out there…there’s just no other tuning system like the JL Max. In all my years playing with high end car audio I’ve never seen anything like it. Literally nothing compares. It’s rare that I’m blown away by new gear…this blew me away.

I would highly recommend finding someone close that’s competent with the JL Audio Max Audio system and have them tune it. I know you wanna play with it…but what that system can do in a matter of hours you won’t be able to replicate in years. It’s that good. Seeing real time phase shift is a game...

A box of Blackhole Tiles costs more than the budget speaker upgrade. lol I have about 30 in each front door. lol

Do like everyone else in Cali and have the shipped to a friend the on to you as a personal item.

Gas was closer to $5 back when I lived there…moved back to Texas in mid-2014. It was my rent I didn’t like…$5800 a month but my house had a nice view of Catalina and Malibu which didn’t suck.

Closing any large holes to separate the front and rear waves of the speaker to prevent cancellations has been done for decades. Fortunately our inner doors are 100% sealed from the start. People think just dropping in new speakers fixes things when in reality it usually just causes a new set...

The doors would obviously be first but for the best results it’s a whole-car scenario. Read this link and treat it like your sound deadening Bible. https://resonixsoundsolutions.com/reference-information/ And if anyone messages me again asking if peel and seal from Home Depot is just as good...