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Cool…tons of peoples make noise. Are your front pad backing plates silver or black?

And nobody has asked which pads you have… There’s the Street Pack…which you obviously have and a pad “upgrade” package called the Performance Pack. The PP pads are well documented to squeak a lot…many people have had them swapped out for the regular SP pads to get rid of it.

You can unbolt the flanges and slide new gaskets in. You don’t have to redo the whole thing.

You’ll get different answers from different people but after I had the car apart and looked at how much panel bond was used to build the car and how few spot welds I didn’t want to take any chances on grounding issues so I ran power and ground to the battery.

Buy a proper grommet or bulkhead connector and do it right. I hate seeing power wire passed through cut existing grommets…you never know if there’s a sharp edge in there. It’s not worth torching a car for a cheap grommet and proper install.

Adams testing showed the AFe with a slightly larger increase in flow at the chargers over the FenFab. I’m not aware of any other independent testing done on either.

AFe front swaybar…and more stereo fab supplies. Oh, and the Hanks buffalo hide belt I’ve been looking at went on sale, so I snatched that up too.

Devils advocate here…but say this guy got his stuff submitted and was in the queue but Adam didn’t get to him before his vacation…then he goes on his very well advertised vacation. Well…there’s your 3 weeks and I can tell you firsthand that when I’m on vacation I answer exactly zero work related...

Grommets through the firewall directly behind the battery then contained in the oem plastic channel all the way to the back.

This has literally been beat to death here. If a person can’t make up their mind at this point they never will.

Concessions must be made when chasing the goals I’m chasing. There will be a covered 14 gauge expanded metal grille in place for daily driving. That will be replaced with a polished acrylic ring to hide the speaker flange but not the cone at competitions.

Now it sits until next weekend.

And…he’s been on vacation. He posted that on FB a while back. Dunno if your timelines cross but he was clear that nothing would be done on those dates.

Kick panel progress…both sides. The left is taller because the dash is higher there. I added blocks to fill in a gap and to anchor the speaker ring so both sides will be 1.25” off the floor. Tops are capped and I need to glass that in today then I’m taking a break until next weekend. I need to...

First test fit is a success. Now to turn them into something useful.

3 overlapped layers of 1.5 oz mat. I might call that good enough.

But note you have ST Line badging, not the ST emblems on the lift gate and grille.

And again…that’s called the ST Line…not just ST. This at its core is an ST group so posts about the ST Line would be helpful if clarified.

Considering the stock 10R60 has now gone into the 10’s I really don’t see why everyone thinks an upgrade is necessary anyway…it’s doing just fine and is living in tons of mid-11 second ST’s and now 10’s. Also considering the ST only comes with one engine and trans and this isn’t an ST Line group...

Well we have a 10R60 to start with. Although there has been some discussion as to what the actual differences are I haven’t seen anyone post what they may be.