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Right. This is +30 10.5 so +25 would be 5mm further out.

No way that’s +25 on a 10.5 wheel. Post the wheel model.

I already told you it would. Do you read the posts at all?

25 is a strong offset but it’ll work on a 10” wheel. I’d probably stay with a 295 on that offset. It’s too much for a 10.5 wheel.

IMO any wheel less than 10” wide is a waste of time. They look like hell with a skinny tire. 10 or 10.5, +30 or 35 on either one and a minimum 295 tire. Anything less looks like a wagon wheel.

Go look at the paper tag on the diff. It’ll clearly say the gear ratio. You should see 3.58.

You have the blacks backwards. Satin looks dirty even when it’s clean. Gloss is the way to go with black. I have satin on my GTI and gloss on the ST…even the wife says the GTI wheels always look dirty and she couldn’t care less.

Actually the Velgens everyone is running are not fully forged. Those are Scott’s flow formed “Lightweight Series” line. His actual forged wheels are north of a grand each at minimum.

It’s the pump. It’s been discussed ad nauseam in basically every ST group on the planet.

Incorrect. The ST shocks and struts are 8% firmer than other models except PIU’s which are rumored but not proven to be a hair firmer than the ST parts.

It’ll fit. Height is about as far as I’d push it but it’ll fit.

I still bet it’s the pump.

Trans pressure changes in Sport mode…I’d guess you heard the pump when that happened. Perfectly normal.

When did UPR start making vinyl inlays? All of their inserts are thick plastic with tape on the back.

I’ve been testing other versions of those parts since they came out…so have many others. I’ve said many times the front bar is just not needed. An IRS car needs a lot of rear bar, not front. Change your settings to full soft up front and full firm out back…your car will be a lot more predictable...

If any shop told me they can’t check the fluid level I’d find another shop…dealer or not.

Just because you got lucky, and that’s definitely what happened, doesn’t mean anyone should look at this as a proper way to do brakes on this car. I’m not gonna argue with you…you’re wrong and no way you’ll admit it but to anyone else reading this post I would advise you to ask someone that does...

Physically pushing in the rear pistons can and regularly does damage the calipers. Yes, your way is incorrect. If your car won’t go into Service Mode you need to find out why and have that repaired, not tell people to do something that can damage their car. Not to mention without service mode...

Yes you need to follow this sequence. Brake Service Mode is the only acceptable way to perform any brake work.

That is incorrect. You put the car into Brake Service Mode and it automatically retracts the rear calipers then when you take it out of that mode it correctly sets the pad gap for the new pads. You don’t unhook the battery and you don’t use any tools to retract anything.