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Trim them if needed, but keep them. You want to keep the radiator stack as sealed as possible to force airflow through all of the cores, not give it a place to go around.

2.25

The what?

Hell all the Brembo stuff is low level stuff anyway…it’s just cast aluminum oem level calipers…not forged like their good stuff. Brembo themselves don’t have a kit for this car anyway.

Drive the front on ramps and lift the rear with a floor jack…like everyone else that does this at home. Use stands in the back to not die.

I highly doubt the answers are anywhere…because none of those are the right way to check it…why would anyone even try? Makes no sense. Do it right and get the correct reading.

Hot side piping from FenFab

There’s no performance difference between the high flow cats on the market and catless, plus all the cons of catless just make them not worth it. And…no reputable tuner will touch your car if they know and they definitely won’t turn off any CEL’s caused from no cats.

Unless you’re gonna tune it none of it will add any power and there’s zero reason to run catless downpipes. If you want the BOV or an exhaust system for some extra sound then have fun but that’s all they’re for.

Same car…both intakes…in case anyone is trying to choose between the two and is curious. The S&B in my opinion is better built with better components all around plus its larger and uses larger filters.

I get the occasional itch for something else then I’ll see the ST at that front 3/4 angle I love…and see the things I still wanna finish I there’s just no way I could get rid of it. It’s pretty ridiculous…it’s just a damned Ford Explorer but I absolutely love this car. I don’t blame you a bit...

I’ve had both. The FenFab are worth the difference. The Delrin bushings make a big difference. Steeda inserts are way easier to install though.

I’ve had mine installed for over a week.

You could but there’s actually a lot of room back there once the oem enclosure is removed…I’d build a new enclosure for at least a 10 and put it in the same spot.

No I think it bent from trying to force the eccentric around for more toe adjustment when there was no more to give. Swapping to adjustable toe links solved it.

Don’t add a sub and keep the oem sub playing. There’s nothing about that that’s a good idea.

Probably the strut top hat going bad or the top nut on the strut shaft isn’t tight.

The front is gonna sit at -.8° give or take .1 That’s perfectly fine and no bolts are needed.

You don’t need camber bolts. There’s more than enough adjustment for any static coil on the market.

I have actually…just the other day. All is well.