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Once the crossmember was back in I took about 15 minutes to install the Thermal Exhaust. It could not have been easier. Laid the parts out on the floor and put them in. Super easy to get everything aligned especially the tips.

Last one of crossmember.

More pics showing assembly.

In hindsight, I think it would have been well worth the $1300 to have Ford do it haha. After a day of sleep I figured I would post some updates. Starting Sunday with a crossmember with only lower control arms. Got that stripped then washed the new crossmember (not sure why) and got ready to...

Well day 2 is complete. Let's just say it didn't quite go as planned. more special tools to fabricate. I'll post more details and pics after I get some sleep. Good news is the crossmenber swap is complete. The Thermal exhaust is on, and all lowering springs are in. Wanted to get the DP's...

She ain't running yet :ROFLMAO: One other note. Ford basically says to replace every bolt that you remove. Things like shock bolts, caliper bolts, sway bar mount bolts, circlips on the diff splines. It is ridiculous. I replaced all the big bolts that hold the subframe on and plan on...

Started my rear cross member replacement.

That's where I quit for the night. Worked on it for about 8 hours but two hours were killed finding a 3.5" muffler clamp and making the "special" tool. So I have 6 into it. Almost got it completely disassembled. I'm hoping it goes together in 4 tomorrow so I can do front springs and DP's...

Once it is at ground level it is much easier to work on. The good news it the Steeda springs and swaybar will take about 30 seconds to install once I'm putting it back together. Removing the knuckle is a minor PITA. Four bolts on the back, remove the big bearing nut, and use a puller to drive...

Now comes the fun part. Fortunately I own a tool company so I have nice tools like this lift table. Basically support the rear subframe bu the subframe only, not the lower control arms but the subframe itself. Build a little support for the whole shebang.

Next step is to disconnect electrical harness to each wheel and hang each caliper from the body. You don't want the calipers hanging on the hose. I used some S hooks to hold them. Also need to remove the clips for the diff vent. and disconnect the lower rear stabilizer bar links and remove...

Next was the driveshaft. Could it be as simple as a few bolts.......nooooooo. Ford shows you one of a few "special tools" one to remove the driveshaft from the diff. The Ford tool is a bar with a slide hammer that attached to the driveshaft. I made one from a 3.5" exhaust clamp and some...

So I finally found some time to tackle this project. I bought a correct crossmeber from Ford with the two bolt bushings. Dealer told me it was an 8 hour job. 8 hours my butt! Anyhow. Started by getting the ST on a lift and removing the stock exhaust. Relatively simple since I've only hat...

Nice! Swore I’d never own another black vehicle. Nothing looks better than freshly detailed black. Nothing looks worse a few hours later[emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So true! Ran a large service department that serviced hospital computerized dictation systems. The salesman would swear the thing would make coffee and give them a blow job just to get the sale. Learned to hate salesmen that lie.....which is 80% IMO and I was a salesman later in life :LOL:

I generally try to match the front windows to the rear windows, which I think is 30. I also run 70 on the windshield. I am amazed at the UV rejection of the windshield for a pretty much clear film. Using 3M ceramic.

All kinds of clicks and noises when mine wakes up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Agree. You can see it is tilted toward the rear and there is a good sized angle between the driveshaft and diff. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well that too[emoji1787] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I love when the animal family members help out! I just haven’t figured out how to get them to hand me tools[emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk