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The street pack is the longest lasting, best performing OE brake system I have ever had. I bought rotors and another set of OE pads at 50k thinking a change was coming soon. It didn't happen until 80k miles and to my surprise, there was probably enough pad for anther 20k miles--this with about...

There is only one belt on the 3.0L ST. If you just replace the belt, it is a far more easy task but I suggest you replace the other wear parts at the same time: belt tensioner (has it's own pulley attached), 2 idler pulleys. PARTS LIST: (prices at time of writing, Levittown Ford, for my...

If the mats are not custom fit for the 2020+ explorers, get rid of them! They are a hazard and can easily be responsible for this. It is one of the issues where you have to spend a little more for custom fit to avoid damages in the thousands and potentially putting your life at risk! I never...

95k miles so.... Serpentine belt changed. Replaced the belt tensioner and the two pulleys so I wouldn't have to revisit that again... NOT FUN.

The difference must be subtle because in my leisurely driving this morning, I could not appreciate a difference.

On the 2 bolt rear subframe, the two bushings are different. you cannot swap them accidentally. They are also different from the single bolt bushing, including the insert. Update:. looking at JXB's own video (screenshot below), seems like the driver's side insert does stick out a little more...

I wouldn't be surprised if mice ate into your electrical harness(es).

Can anyone with the double JXB inserts comment on the driver's side (left mount in the picture above) of mine? It sticks out quite a bit more than the passenger side. Torqued to about 140 ft lbs which is about all I could manage laying flat on my back with no real leverage. Just seems odd.

You're right. Had a brain fart.

I think you should have removed the pinion and subrame bushing supports. If they are going to replace the rear diff, they may just toss those and install stock.

I've bought a few Neiko tools before--solid brand. I can't afford the high end stuff and haven't had issues with 2nd and 3rd tier stuff: Husky, Neiko, Craftsman, ARES, Performance Tool, GearWrench, Harbor Freight...

Definitely take it to the dealer. Hopefully it is just a rear differential carrier bearing. Worst case scenario, you need the entire rear diff replaced like one member here reported!

Who's on first...:ROFLMAO: For the record, are we talking oiled air filters or oil filters? I still don't know.

Yes, the undercarriage cover is held in by plastic retainers that fail. You need to replace each and every one of them with stainless steel fender washers and M6 nuts.

The SPDs have a flex section on the downpipe, not midpipe. That said, even the stock cats fail at the welds for some reason.

Well, it looks like the SPD downpipe to SPD midpipe is still clamped. Your best bet may be to get the driver's side down pipe replaced by undoing both clamps and dropping the rear exhaust out of the way. If SPD will not warranty the downpipe because you are not the original owner, maybe they...

I would contact SPD. Looks like the welds at the cat failed. I would think they would warranty that. Sucks that the rest of your system is custom welded though...that's going to be a pain.

NHTSA Campaign Number: 24V635000 Manufacturer Ford Motor Company Components ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING Potential Number of Units Affected 90,736 Summary Ford Motor Company (Ford) is recalling certain 2021-2022 Bronco, F-150, Edge, Explorer, Lincoln Nautilus, and Lincoln Aviator vehicles...

Hopefully they do the full FADA TSB and not just O-ring replacement.

Yes, it is on the bottom: https://www.foexplorer.com/ford_explorer_general_procedures_differential_draining_and_filling-509.html As always, make sure you can loosen the fill plug before you drain it.