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is this on the driver's side? Did you have the rear diff mount replaced recently?

The car is using a lot of power in ACC. Your experience is not unexpected.

PIU shocks/struts are a good choice IMHO. Last I checked, they came down in price. On my second set of PIU rears and think would recommend them. Seems even vendors say Bilstein has no immediate plans for a set.

OEM TOOLS 24938 9.5 Liter... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N7X4TP9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share I use this model for the engine oil and trans oil on my ST, as well as engine oil on my Mazda and Audi. I used to have a smaller extractor for my BMW but it is too small. You will extract 6L of engine...

You are right. Sorry, saw JXB mentioned and was thinking the upgraded rear mount bolt which whoosh lists at 150 ft lbs.

150 ft-lbs

Not sure what year you have but my MY2020 had a gear shift module firmware update.

The charging system soon may be unrelated. Not sure if you have a code reader but here's something to check from Ford Boss Me:

The stock ones work just fine. Keep them until their worn. Steeda sells an adjustable set if you must.

Hard to say. If I put a can in the cup holder, anything in the side bins, it'll rattle. Same for glasses in the glasses holder in the upper console. Not too many rattles otherwise on my 2020. I've also sound insulated the front doors and trunk though, and also I've owned a WRX so there's that!

Maybe they forgot to flash the AWD module with FDRS after they did the FADA delete. I would think there'd be codes though as there is no signal going to and from the FADA after the TSB. You have to think, either a major component of the drivetrain is wrong or the control programming is off...

NICE. Really should have been a recall. I wouldn't blame the engineers though. the modules used before and after the date ranges affected are fine.

Pay particular attention the codes. When I had the speed sensor fail, there was only one code specifically identifying a speed sensor fault.

Some platforms like the CX90, JB4 is all that there is currently. But for Explorers, just about any tune is superior. JB4 doesn't have any trans tuning at all. When I had one for BMW, it would produce a bunch of ghost codes which they no longer auto clear.

I try to pump out as much remaining oil as possible and remove the fill straw. Basically just store it to allow any oil to drain out on a paper towel. There is only so clean you can get them. Do the same thing for my larger fluid transfer pump and also for my smaller syringe type transfer pump.

I used the transfer pump that attaches directly to the quart bottle of oil. It only takes 0.6 qts if I recall. Oh, and in that link I referred to, you do not have to remove the front undershield--just the rectangular center one.

You using an impact wrench? For just taking off tires, I jack up one whole side at a time via the pinch weld, do the two wheels in the air to a reasonable torque, then drop the side and do the other two on the other side. At the end, I will torque all the wheels to spec with the car on the...

I've only used a powerbleeder and another time, a mityvac. I don't touch the brake pedal nor have the car on. No issues.

You should not assume the aftermarket parts are perfectly designed. Steeda has certainly made their share of mistakes. If enough people complain about it, maybe there is some truth to it. There is a reason they stamp a mfg date and now, version on their springs. Still, the springs...

FYI: I had assumed these belts were good for 100k miles, but the owners manual states you just INSPECT at 100k miles and to REPLACE at 150k miles. The condition of the belt I replaced at 95k was very, very good so I guess that makes sense.