I was lucky enough to pickup a certified pre-owned, single owner, low mileage, excellent++ condition, 2020 ST in FEB, and it has been a blast getting to know this SUV. Coming from a 2017 XLT (equipped to look like a Sport - which I loved for 7+ years), I am realizing how much of a dog that engine was. The ST makes the XLT engine seem like a Cuisinart, but it is perfect for my Son who just turned 16.
Since the upgrade, I am now realizing just how much time/effort I have put into the work and research. It would appear I am either an enthusiast or may possibly need therapy. Regardless, I wanted to compile and share what I have learned along the way so here goes. Apologize if this is a bit sloppy, I brain-dumped this over the last few days and figured it was good enough to post.
Disclaimer: I am not a mechanic and some of the things described here may not be entirely accurate or perhaps dead wrong. It isn't meant to be a definitive guide, I simply wanted to share what I have learned. Also, do your own research and modify at your own risk!!
Sunroof Calibration
My sunroof/moonroof shade was not closing all the way. Simple calibration solved it.
Front Driver/Passenger Window Calibration
The one touch up/down was not working along with remote open. Fixed with calibration procedure:
I have attached the changes I have compiled from various sources. I love all these changes with disabling auto start/stop being my fav. It does come with a minor side effect of sometimes displaying "rear brake assist not enabled" or something similar, but this only appears for a few seconds when shifting into reverse. If you depend on rear brake assist functioning I do not recommend. There is also a hardware option from AutoStop Eliminator that many seem to have used with success.
This is a good thread and where many of these came from:
https://www.explorerst.org/threads/r2d2s-2022-st-kiss-build.5210/
Underbody Felt Aero/Soundproofing Problems
I was experiencing rattling sounds which seemed to be coming from mid-door height on both sides of the ST while at highway speeds. The sound wasn't substantial, but more like paper or a light wire flapping and scratching against something in the wind. On the drivers side it sounded like it was almost in the keypad area, but nothing was loose on the ST that I could see. After researching, it is a well documented issue with the felt underbody aero/sound baffling which is secured to threaded bolts on the body using crappy plastic retainers. These plastic retainers seemingly fail or do not do well after being removed/reinstalled during maintenance. When I got underneath the ST I found a few that were clearly moving up/down when pressed (including the one directly below drivers side door).
The fix is remarkably simple using 1/4 in. x 1-1/4 in. stainless steel fender washers along with M6 nuts (zinc or galvanized may work fine depending on environment). You should be able to replace without jacking up the car, but I found it helpful to put mine on ramps and using a creeper so I could check them all (cheap from Harbor Freight). I had to pretty much cut the original plastic retainers off but I am sure there may be a more graceful way to get this part done. This one was driving me absolutely crazy... problem solved!!!
Before/After Pics
(Clearly shows how the plastic retainer has slid all the way down the threaded bolt - new one screwed up tight)
Cam Phasers
Well documented issue with Ford Ecoboosts in general, but seems to affect the ST's at a high rate. If you have rattling on cold startup that quiets down after a few seconds you may want to research further. I am not a mechanic, but after researching this, you can use the "flood start method" to diagnose and/or reduce likelihood of the cam phaser issue happening in the first place. At a high level, the flood start method builds oil pressure before engine turns over so the cam phasers can operate properly. If you think you are having the issue, you can use the flood start by holding the brake like you normally would on start + holding gas all the way to the floor + press and hold start button for 3-5 seconds (some say to repeat process), then start normally. If the sound goes away it is likely the phasers and the repair is not cheap and labor intensive. Many recommend to replace the timing chain while doing the cam phasers. Like I mentioned, many advocate using the flood start as a preventative measure. I think another significant factor is oil quality and routine. Do not skimp on oil changes and buy high quality oil.
Transmission & Trans Fluid Issues
While we are talking about engine issues... the 10R60 transmission in the ST's seems to be touchy and issues are well documented. Mine was shifting a little hard particularly on the downshift in Sport mode (nothing terrible like clunking), but I wanted to make sure everything was cool. After researching, many people have found the fluid level low and simply filling to the proper level cleared up issues (do not overfill as this can be just as bad). It has been reported ST's can come from the factory with improper fill levels. Transmission fluid changes seems to be a topic of significant debate (drain/fill or complete flush). Some will say changing the fluid is good and others would say it can cause problems - so make your own decision. I took mine to a shop that specializes in transmissions and they verified the level and tested the fluid. I asked about a fluid change and the head mechanic advised "if it were his he would not change it". Considering they had another 2020 ST in the shop for a full transmission repair and speaking with him about ST transmission issues in general, it was clear they had experience, so I decided to go with his advice.
Update your ST with FDRS
So you might ask, what about the shifting issue in the transmission section? After it checked out, logically I decided I it may need a software update. I learned that while these are not technically "smart vehicles", there is actually a ton of software/firmware that gets updated by Ford, but they never reach your vehicle. Dealers do not apply these unless they are working on a specific issue that requires a module update. My guess is they mostly don't do it because it takes a looong time to install (mine took the better part of a day).
The system/network that runs everything in the car is called the Controller Area Network (CAN) system and consists of a bunch of modules which is what you see when you use FORScan. While you can manipulate module settings in FORScan, you cannot update the modules themselves. I believe the newer models get these updates via OTA, but not the 2020, which led me to FDRS. I am not sure how many modules I updated and wish I had taken a screenshot before, but it was at least 5 and probably more like 8 and touching everything from the engine, dashboard, HVAC, door controls, etc. I can honestly say it is running noticeably better, shifting smoother and even mileage improved. Considering how long it took, there had to be a ton of stuff in there. I honestly doubt it had been updated since it left the factory.
This isn't for the faint of heart and you need to be aware you are messing with the "brains" of the ST so make sure you do your homework. It also isn't cheap as you need the Opus Mongoose cable ($575 - no the FORScan cables do not work), NOCO5 battery maintainer ($70) and access to the Ford updates ($50 for 3 days). I am sure the dealer will charge you more than half of this amount and good luck getting them to do it. Here are the links I used to learn more:
https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...uide-to-updating-your-mach-e-with-fdrs.10217/
https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/ecu-module-programming-guide-using-fdrs.8249/
"Upgraded" Technology Package with 10.1" Screen
No other way to say it... the "upgraded" 10.1" screen just wasn't well thought out by Ford engineers. It just makes no sense that a portrait screen like that would be configured to essentially only utilize half the screen. Quite frankly, it is terrible and the stock 8" screen is almost better. I say almost, because thanks to the work at FMODS you can use Carplay or Android Auto in full screen mode. This does require jailbreaking Sync, but thousands are running this mod without issue (including me).
https://www.fmods.net/community/dlext/details?df_id=74
There are also people on ST forums and FB that will prepare the USB sticks for you for a fee. The hardest part is the sequencing of the jailbreak install with the first USB which is incredibly touchy on the timing when you remove it after boot. It took me a handful of tries, but it eventually worked like a charm.
I did have some lag on my Wireless Carplay adapter (CarLinkit) after installing, but was able to fix by changing the following:
Seat Rattle
I was having some rattling coming from the rear seats. There was a recall released just this year for rear bolts coming loose or something on the last row which largely fixed it. I also found that the armrests will rattle when in the down position when going over bumps - try keeping them up and see if that solves your problem. Also, the seats sometimes don't latch completely after being pushed forward. Just forcefully push them back into place sometimes resolves random rattles.
Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS)
Tire pressure monitors are a nice convenience, but it sucks when they start to fail one at a time. The used ST Gods really did me in when mine started to go just a few months after I bought it. I do have an extended warranty, but it comes with a $200 deductible. These things are apparently supposed to last 7+ years, but mine barely made it 5, with 2 failing within a month. After paying 2 deductibles, I managed to get the other 2 replaced under warranty as well.
That's it! Hope this helps you out. Feel free to add, correct or discuss.
Since the upgrade, I am now realizing just how much time/effort I have put into the work and research. It would appear I am either an enthusiast or may possibly need therapy. Regardless, I wanted to compile and share what I have learned along the way so here goes. Apologize if this is a bit sloppy, I brain-dumped this over the last few days and figured it was good enough to post.
Disclaimer: I am not a mechanic and some of the things described here may not be entirely accurate or perhaps dead wrong. It isn't meant to be a definitive guide, I simply wanted to share what I have learned. Also, do your own research and modify at your own risk!!
Sunroof Calibration
My sunroof/moonroof shade was not closing all the way. Simple calibration solved it.
Front Driver/Passenger Window Calibration
The one touch up/down was not working along with remote open. Fixed with calibration procedure:
- Start the engine.
- Press and hold the window control switch until the door window is fully open.
- Release the window control switch.
- NOTE: All of the remaining steps must be carried out within 30 seconds from start to finish.
Lift and hold the window control switch until the door window stalls in the fully closed position for 2 seconds. - Release the window control switch.
- Press and hold the window control switch until the door window stalls in the fully open position for 2 seconds.
- Release the window control switch.
- Lift and hold the window control switch until the door window stalls in the fully closed position for 2 seconds.
- Test for correct window operation by carrying out the one-touch down and one-touch up features.
I have attached the changes I have compiled from various sources. I love all these changes with disabling auto start/stop being my fav. It does come with a minor side effect of sometimes displaying "rear brake assist not enabled" or something similar, but this only appears for a few seconds when shifting into reverse. If you depend on rear brake assist functioning I do not recommend. There is also a hardware option from AutoStop Eliminator that many seem to have used with success.
This is a good thread and where many of these came from:
https://www.explorerst.org/threads/r2d2s-2022-st-kiss-build.5210/
Underbody Felt Aero/Soundproofing Problems
I was experiencing rattling sounds which seemed to be coming from mid-door height on both sides of the ST while at highway speeds. The sound wasn't substantial, but more like paper or a light wire flapping and scratching against something in the wind. On the drivers side it sounded like it was almost in the keypad area, but nothing was loose on the ST that I could see. After researching, it is a well documented issue with the felt underbody aero/sound baffling which is secured to threaded bolts on the body using crappy plastic retainers. These plastic retainers seemingly fail or do not do well after being removed/reinstalled during maintenance. When I got underneath the ST I found a few that were clearly moving up/down when pressed (including the one directly below drivers side door).
The fix is remarkably simple using 1/4 in. x 1-1/4 in. stainless steel fender washers along with M6 nuts (zinc or galvanized may work fine depending on environment). You should be able to replace without jacking up the car, but I found it helpful to put mine on ramps and using a creeper so I could check them all (cheap from Harbor Freight). I had to pretty much cut the original plastic retainers off but I am sure there may be a more graceful way to get this part done. This one was driving me absolutely crazy... problem solved!!!
Before/After Pics
(Clearly shows how the plastic retainer has slid all the way down the threaded bolt - new one screwed up tight)
Cam Phasers
Well documented issue with Ford Ecoboosts in general, but seems to affect the ST's at a high rate. If you have rattling on cold startup that quiets down after a few seconds you may want to research further. I am not a mechanic, but after researching this, you can use the "flood start method" to diagnose and/or reduce likelihood of the cam phaser issue happening in the first place. At a high level, the flood start method builds oil pressure before engine turns over so the cam phasers can operate properly. If you think you are having the issue, you can use the flood start by holding the brake like you normally would on start + holding gas all the way to the floor + press and hold start button for 3-5 seconds (some say to repeat process), then start normally. If the sound goes away it is likely the phasers and the repair is not cheap and labor intensive. Many recommend to replace the timing chain while doing the cam phasers. Like I mentioned, many advocate using the flood start as a preventative measure. I think another significant factor is oil quality and routine. Do not skimp on oil changes and buy high quality oil.
Transmission & Trans Fluid Issues
While we are talking about engine issues... the 10R60 transmission in the ST's seems to be touchy and issues are well documented. Mine was shifting a little hard particularly on the downshift in Sport mode (nothing terrible like clunking), but I wanted to make sure everything was cool. After researching, many people have found the fluid level low and simply filling to the proper level cleared up issues (do not overfill as this can be just as bad). It has been reported ST's can come from the factory with improper fill levels. Transmission fluid changes seems to be a topic of significant debate (drain/fill or complete flush). Some will say changing the fluid is good and others would say it can cause problems - so make your own decision. I took mine to a shop that specializes in transmissions and they verified the level and tested the fluid. I asked about a fluid change and the head mechanic advised "if it were his he would not change it". Considering they had another 2020 ST in the shop for a full transmission repair and speaking with him about ST transmission issues in general, it was clear they had experience, so I decided to go with his advice.
Update your ST with FDRS
So you might ask, what about the shifting issue in the transmission section? After it checked out, logically I decided I it may need a software update. I learned that while these are not technically "smart vehicles", there is actually a ton of software/firmware that gets updated by Ford, but they never reach your vehicle. Dealers do not apply these unless they are working on a specific issue that requires a module update. My guess is they mostly don't do it because it takes a looong time to install (mine took the better part of a day).
The system/network that runs everything in the car is called the Controller Area Network (CAN) system and consists of a bunch of modules which is what you see when you use FORScan. While you can manipulate module settings in FORScan, you cannot update the modules themselves. I believe the newer models get these updates via OTA, but not the 2020, which led me to FDRS. I am not sure how many modules I updated and wish I had taken a screenshot before, but it was at least 5 and probably more like 8 and touching everything from the engine, dashboard, HVAC, door controls, etc. I can honestly say it is running noticeably better, shifting smoother and even mileage improved. Considering how long it took, there had to be a ton of stuff in there. I honestly doubt it had been updated since it left the factory.
This isn't for the faint of heart and you need to be aware you are messing with the "brains" of the ST so make sure you do your homework. It also isn't cheap as you need the Opus Mongoose cable ($575 - no the FORScan cables do not work), NOCO5 battery maintainer ($70) and access to the Ford updates ($50 for 3 days). I am sure the dealer will charge you more than half of this amount and good luck getting them to do it. Here are the links I used to learn more:
https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/ecu-module-programming-guide-using-fdrs.8249/
"Upgraded" Technology Package with 10.1" Screen
No other way to say it... the "upgraded" 10.1" screen just wasn't well thought out by Ford engineers. It just makes no sense that a portrait screen like that would be configured to essentially only utilize half the screen. Quite frankly, it is terrible and the stock 8" screen is almost better. I say almost, because thanks to the work at FMODS you can use Carplay or Android Auto in full screen mode. This does require jailbreaking Sync, but thousands are running this mod without issue (including me).
https://www.fmods.net/community/dlext/details?df_id=74
There are also people on ST forums and FB that will prepare the USB sticks for you for a fee. The hardest part is the sequencing of the jailbreak install with the first USB which is incredibly touchy on the timing when you remove it after boot. It took me a handful of tries, but it eventually worked like a charm.
I did have some lag on my Wireless Carplay adapter (CarLinkit) after installing, but was able to fix by changing the following:
- Disable GPS
- Frame Delay 20
I was having some rattling coming from the rear seats. There was a recall released just this year for rear bolts coming loose or something on the last row which largely fixed it. I also found that the armrests will rattle when in the down position when going over bumps - try keeping them up and see if that solves your problem. Also, the seats sometimes don't latch completely after being pushed forward. Just forcefully push them back into place sometimes resolves random rattles.
Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS)
Tire pressure monitors are a nice convenience, but it sucks when they start to fail one at a time. The used ST Gods really did me in when mine started to go just a few months after I bought it. I do have an extended warranty, but it comes with a $200 deductible. These things are apparently supposed to last 7+ years, but mine barely made it 5, with 2 failing within a month. After paying 2 deductibles, I managed to get the other 2 replaced under warranty as well.
That's it! Hope this helps you out. Feel free to add, correct or discuss.
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