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Please check in if you've installed CVFAB downpipes on a 2025.

Combatvet

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#1
Appointment for this Thursday to have them installed, has anyone else had a set installed? Did you use the Defoulers, Extension (straight, 90Degree), etc? Any CEL?
 

2020FordRaptor

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#2
You must put the defoulers on in order not to get get a CEL.
 

OP
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Combatvet

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Thread Starter #3
I bought the Vibrant Performance J-Style Oxygen Sensor Fittings VPE-19019, I hope these will work in lieu of as my CVFAB issued defoulers were accidentally omitted from my order, and will not make the install date. Fingers crossed.
 

OP
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Thread Starter #4
I picked my '25 up today and my God is it just a bit much, still getting used to the added. If you're on the fence of combining the Thermal R&D 3" & CVFab downpipes because of loudness, it is! I had the CVFab downpipes mated to the Thermal R&D 3", and my installer had a little difficulty with one downpipe being out of round where it mates to the exhaust. Thankfully it didn't throw any codes, but they used https://vibrantperformance.com/thread-on-j-style-sensor-bung-adapter-19019/, instead of the cheapie extensions CVFab provided. Overall, I've got to get used to the added noises that I can now hear.
 

UNBROKEN

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#5
I picked my '25 up today and my God is it just a bit much, still getting used to the added. If you're on the fence of combining the Thermal R&D 3" & CVFab downpipes because of loudness, it is! I had the CVFab downpipes mated to the Thermal R&D 3", and my installer had a little difficulty with one downpipe being out of round where it mates to the exhaust. Thankfully it didn't throw any codes, but they used https://vibrantperformance.com/thread-on-j-style-sensor-bung-adapter-19019/, instead of the cheapie extensions CVFab provided. Overall, I've got to get used to the added noises that I can now hear.
I knew it would be louder…I added Vibrant Ultra Quiet resonators when I did the Thermal 3”. It helps a lot. att.akD8LHTM6g-mHND1VhNMDCkcgE8LYwfNZAQUqDNyazc.jpeg
 

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#6
I got my CVF downpipes installed two days ago, wow removing the stock downpipes is VERY hard if you’re like me and not great at turning wrenches and on jack stands in the garage.

Funny enough the drivers side was the side I had more trouble with, I think the inner stud wasn’t installed far enough into the turbo and stuck out too far, or was bent from factory, I could not get my E22 socket over it whatsoever, even just the socket not connected to anything wouldn’t go over it.
Finally ended up putting a very deep 17 on it and pulled that thing out.

Removal alone took me 5-6 hours by myself but again I’m a horrible mechanic, there’s a reason I sell cars and don’t fix them!

Installation was easy, used the J style defoulers included without any of the smaller included pieces and no check engine light! Haven’t found any instructions on the updated defoulers and what to use or not use so basically just guessed and it’s working so far!

drivers side midpipe doesn’t want to fully seat on the downpipe most likely from the clamp smashing it too much onto the stock downpipes so I have a tiny exhaust leak there currently I was too tired to get perfect and needed to drive my car to work the next day.

next weekend I’ll expand the midpipe a tiny bit to get fully over downpipes and it should be perfect!

Ended up replacing the gaskets, downpipes nuts, one stud and got all new bolts for subframe and transmission crossmember since Ford recommends throwing those bolts away.

wasn’t quite sure if an alignment is recommended after moving front subframe but I wanted to get it checked anyway after my Eibach springs have had a few months to settle after my last alignment and everything was fairly far out of alignment so I’m glad I did. I also had to have my shop help me torque two subframe bolts since torque spec on them is 195 lbft and my torque wrench only goes to 150.

overall went as smooth as I could have hoped with my mechanical ability being very limited, I don’t think I’d ever do this job again without being on a lift!
 

OP
Combatvet

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Thread Starter #7
Mine still has a slight leak on the passenger side. It's gonna cost an additional $400 to fix. That sumbitch is just gonna stay there until I get my FENFAB charge pipes in and swapped out.
 



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