We bought the 2020 ST (Ford Blue Certified) July 2024. 6 weeks later, transmission went out. I refused to have it covered under our warranty and Ford covered the replacement. This took about 2 months. One of the front and one of the back tire pressure monitoring systems kept going out. Then all 4 have been out since end of 2024. Then ECM module had to be replaced. Lost lane and driver assist. Then while away on July 4th, car wouldn’t start. Jumped off and ran fine that day. Next morning it was dead again. Jumped it off and drove to O’Reillys and had new battery installed. Ran fine all day. Next morning when leaving vacation, it wouldn’t crank again with brand new battery. Key fob wouldn’t work. The brake lights and headlights would light up faintly and the car literally vibrated to the same pulse as the lights. Jumped it off and drove 5 hours home straight to the Ford dealership. This was July 3rd, and I just got it back yesterday July 29th. When we dropped it off, it died again that night and they had to jump it off to pull in the shop. Supposedly they never had to jump it off again after that. They could not find anything wrong with the electrical system or why it would run. They did find an oil pan leak and front axle issue. They replaced the oil pan and replace the front axle. Went to pick it up and they didn’t look at why lane assist and drive assist wouldn’t work so we refused to accept it back until all had been checked. They reset it or something and it fixed it. Picked up 7/29 and on 7/30 the engine light came on. It felt like it hesitated a few times. Husband put scanner on it and it has 3 evap leak codes. I love the ST but done with these issues! Anyone else have anything similar?
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2020 Explorer ST
- Thread starter CindySC
- Start date
Sounds like a headache, no big issues on my 2020.
Things that have replaced since purchasing is 09/2021 used 24k:
Front drivers axle boot
FADA oil leak fix
Oil pan replaced( it was the FADA not oil pan)
Front diff leak
Purge valve replaced
Passenger side cat replaced
Couple of updated modules
Rear shocks replaced
Knock on wood, nothing else major
Things that have replaced since purchasing is 09/2021 used 24k:
Front drivers axle boot
FADA oil leak fix
Oil pan replaced( it was the FADA not oil pan)
Front diff leak
Purge valve replaced
Passenger side cat replaced
Couple of updated modules
Rear shocks replaced
Knock on wood, nothing else major
I have a 2020 St and have had little to no issues after initial battery was replaced twice by Dealer under warranty, a leaky rear drain issue (dealer fixed). I have lowered mine, upgraded swaybar, replaced tires, and now I'm having a drivers side window issue, still love the ST though.
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- '20 Raptor, '22 Explorer ST, '14 GT500, '03 F150
When your battery was going out, what symptoms did you have? Lately we have been getting a lot of codes for random communication loss between modules and invalid signals. Almost always on startup. The battery seems to test in decent health at Oreilly’s and at Ford. Car starts right up with no issues. But it’s 5 years old and i often get notifications on my phone “remote features disabled to save battery”
Even while resting/sleeping, these rolling computers of ours require a lot of energy. After about 3.5 years on the OEM battery, I started receiving ever-more-frequent notices that "the remote features have been disabled to save battery." Once I replaced the battery with a similar AGM type, I have yet to receive another notice even given the rare occasion of being parked/unstarted for three+ weeks.
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The disabled services don’t bother me much. And I have a dash cam with parking mode so it will record for roughly 3 days until it hits the voltage cutoff that I set. It has never been an issue in the past but lately after we start up the car and put it in drive or reverse, the brakes are completely gone until we press roughly 3 times. It’s totally an electrical or software issue. I think the ABS module is rebooting under load. Ine day the car rolled back unexpectedly so i stood on the brakes as hard as i could and stopped the car, put it in park, pulled parking brake on, restarted the engine, release parking brake, put car in reverse, and the brakes were totally fine. It’s not like I had to pump them to build pressure. Doesn’t seem like a mechanical issue.
I get it, but regardless of any other issues, if the battery in your 2020 ST is the original OEM, it's time for replacement, if not well past time. Save yourself a lot of imminent headache and replace it if for no other reason than to eliminate it as a possible cause of any other "mysterious" electrical issues, many of which are well-documented in multiple threads on this forum.
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I agree. I have started saving off all the DTCs from forscan just to have more clues and maybe help others out if it does end up just being the battery. But i’m going to go pick up a battery now that i’m seeing all the other gremlins that come up with an old battery. I don’t want to wait until the car rolls into something without brakes.
If you are going to replace it yourself, there are some pretty fair deals to be had. I put in one of these a couple of years ago and have been quite pleased with its performance thus far: WEIZE Wise Series Group 48 AGM.
