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Better that you had to wrestle with it. Not as concerned with your pic then. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m missing something. Iirc you can’t remove the spring without removing the lower shock bolt. You shouldn’t be able to move the spring from the upper perch when everything is bolted up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s just plain scary! I would run as fast as you can. That is a HUGE liability for the dealer. A call to the owner would be appreciated I’m sure but I can also understand not wanting to deal with them ever again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This! Impact drivers are not the right tool but much faster for techs. Really bad with torque to yield bolts. Torque wrench is your friend. The cradle bolts are 195ftlbs for the big ones. Had to go with the super long 1/2 inch torque wrench. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Preferable to do it on vehicle so you can hit the low spot. I never ram it without the holes so I can’t say if it is louder but doubt you could tell the difference. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I used copper antisieze. I reused mine as I’m only at 20k. They are not cheap. Changing them down the road will be much easier with the downpipes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Go one step further and get an oil evacuator. Stick the tube down the dipstick tube and suck it out. With the oil filter up top you never have to get under your car. I have the your too but haven’t touched it my last two oil changes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here’s mine. I threw a zip tie on the inner brake line bushing. One popped out of the holder last time I rotated tires. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is what I use in my shower doors. More vinegar though. Does an awesome job on the shower. Lighter mix works great in the car and is relatively gently. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

After six months of waiting I finally installed my SPD downpipes. Should have waited another six months[emoji23] Left side about an hour to get the cat out. Right side…3-4 hours. Others have said, the right nut on the right cat is impossible to see even lowering the subframe an inch. Fighting...

I run hot shot friction reducer with every oil change and gasoline extreme every 10k miles. Had a bunch of diesel trucks at my business and became a convert to their products. Always got high mileage out if injectors. Some going 300 k or more. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The clicking is normal near as I can tell. When I’m working in my garage I hear all kinds of clicking and whiring from time to time. Havent had any problems in 24k miles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Never forget the first time I drove east to west through Texas. BIG! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wouldn’t let an exhaust shop do my turbos. A lot has to come off to get to the turbos. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Fenfab non adjustable rear toe links. In my ST for six months. Upgraded to adjustable. $200 plus shipping, likely $50 or less. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

+1 on the brake fluid! And rags and brake cleaner[emoji23]. Also make sure you don’t let the brake reservoir run dry. Bleeding after a line change is bad enough, you don’t want to bleed the master if you dont have to. My vacuum bleeder has a bottle I install upside down into the reservoir...

Welcome. Like red. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah install not fun. Have had a set in my garage for months waiting for me to install. Also if you get them coated you get a marginal thermal improvement. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

15-20hp Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice. Now you know. I’m sure it will get resolved. I love mine and have had zero issues other than a shit eating grin on my face sometimes[emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk