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So do you really think it was the surface area of the bushing sleeve that made the difference? If anyone else has had the same issue using the Phenfab links I haven't seen it reported.

I just finished installing my kit with the 3rd caliper and wish I had just gotten the integrated. Routing of the brake line and the factory bracket that holds it and the wiring is a pain in the ass as is getting to the mounting bolts for the 3rd caliper. BTW I went with Hawk HPS 5 pads...

@UNBROKEN have you checked for anymore bending since installing the Steeda links?

The mics aren't there to make it work. Only the hands-free mic is.

Were there aspect ratio or portrait to landscape issues you had to overcome? BTW the SYNC4 8" screen can be used in place of the SYNC3 8" on quite a few models. Given the Explorer APIM is a Gen4 SYNC3 unit it should work fine, the screen is a touch larger and the resolution is bumped from...

The Interceptor came with a few different variations. Some of my local units have blacked out versions of the Platinum headlights even. So what is it you are wanting?

Spark plug heat ranges don't translate 1:1 between manufacturers https://www.ngk.com/heat-range-conversion-chart-2

Maybe luck of the draw on plastic suppliers? My ST was built late 2021 so there are some pandemic level QC issues to tend with.

The plastics quality of the Explorer interior panels is shotty at best, everyone knows that but the rear interior trim pieces seem to be worse than the rest of the car. The retainer mounting area on the hatch sill plate stretched and started pulling away from the panel the first time I took it...

Good, that's been my only hesitation to decide on interface TOSlink to DSP. I know Ford has a habit of wiring their audio systems out of phase to prevent echo and/or cancellation with the phone mics. I'm guessing NavTV handles that issue with processing and that's why I worried about delays...

Did you have any weird issues to sort out with call audio canceling out or echos on the Zen?

The difference is with and without emergency call. Here's the wiring for both and honestly I don't know how to tell if the system is wired for it or not. Maybe relays exist to change the wiring? I do know that emergency call is disabled on mine as evident by the icon in the upper right corner of...

Thanks, I just had mine off and swapped out the tweeters with some old Morels I had. Swapped the cap out with a 10uf to lower the crossover point a bit. Even though they are powered by the head unit it's an improvement over what was there and really I just couldn't leave it that way and put it...

Here you go, straight from the service manual. Front door tweeters and rear D-pillars are running from the head unit. Everything else off the DSP amp

Okay, I need to quit being lazy and pull the panels off anyway lol

Hey do you recall whether or not the front door mid and tweet were paralleled with a cap for the tweeter or did they each have their own dedicated channel? I looked through your posts but couldn't tell from the pics I was looking at that mobridge setup also but wasn't sure how much flexibility...

Do you have an intake also? The aFe intake made my Thermal louder in the 2000-2200 RPM range (I installed it after having the exhaust on for a week). I added some cheap deadening mat to each muffler to fix it.

Not sure what you were expecting. The headlamp is designed as a complete unit using LED just like every other new car. They are all integrated systems and should you have a failure it's typically the ballast, not the diodes. The ballast is under $200 new from a dealer.

That has to be the fastest anechoic chamber I've ever seen lol. Nice work, I don't plan on going that far with it but I'm sure you didn't either.

I'm not sure it'll be as effective as doing it in two layers but I wanted to try it. Have you tried using thinsulate (or similar) in the interior cavities with your additional sound treatments?