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But it voids the longer 5/60 powertrain warranty that the 392 and stock ST would still have.....

This! Im sure already lost his warranty by now LOL 392 or stock ST would still retain its drivetrain for a couple more years/miles

S&B looks easier to install and looks nicer as well. I bet it also makes more noise as well, thats a plus on my book

Interesting to hear that you prefer the tech on the Explorer. Sync 3 IMO is one of the worst and slowest auto UI vs the rest of the top auto makers. Dodge's UI is certainly one of the best, fastest, and easiest to use. I do love my massagers though lol Did the Durango drive much harsher?

Almost every car from every brand ive driven (Cadillac, Ford, Chevy, BMW, etc) is usually off by 2~ MPG on 70%+ city driving. 70%+ on highway driving is usually 1/2 mpg off or closer. Been the case for my Explorer as well

What @SimonsGTS said and/or press the brake pedal see if the brake lights turn on.

I haven't seen the blue screen in a while, been about 8 months since last time I saw it. It's also my DD. Not sure if its cold related or a coincidence but last time I got it was when under 40 degrees

Unplug the negative terminal, turn the lights on manually for 20 or so min I believe. It will discharge the leftover from the PCM.

It actually would reset them, however, it throws a code to the PCM when the KAM get's reset which in your case is a lil too late for that. A dead battery though can do the trick, there's tricks to how to reset the KAM with a dead battery. Regardless, you should still fight for it if the tune...

A dead battery can also reset the key cycles.

The side clips popped out, practically impossible to fix it without removing the sunrooof. Happened once to me as well, unfortunately, dealership needs to take care of this. Make sure you also check the sunroof once you get the vehicle back. They didnt seal mine properly after fixing the...

You're right, a Platinum is a higher tier lol

Its been posted plenty of times that this tune will void the ESP. It also shortens the drivetrain warranty from 5/60 to 3/36 from the first day it was services or bought new, whichever came first Mr Fire Guy though will block you for posting this haha

Not how turbo's work.... As @Suprawill1 stated, they only produce boost if needed when you go WOT or close to it. The turbo may or may not spin on idle but will not produce any "boost" or run off high RPM on idle. A turbo timer was used to move the hot oil from the turbo so they wont get cooked...

Ecoboost engines use passive convection cooling, once the water pump is off, the coolant reverses bringing fresh cool coolant and pushing the hot turbo coolant out. Most auto makers use a similar passive system as well on turbo car's with non electric water pumps

Was gonna say this LOL it actually lost warranty by getting the FP tune haha The Durango also has a 5/60 powertrain warranty, not 3/36. Dude is just full of himself.

It was only recommended if you were running an oil cooled turbo only on the 2JZ, for stock or similar CT12 set ups, it was not needed unless you were tracking the car. On most/all? newer cars, the coolant keeps circulating on the turbo's after shut off. Even then, driving normal down the street...

And at 71+k miles. Good to see it still running really strong.

If it was the early 90's, then yes, you would need a turbo timer or let it idle for a couple of min's. Turbo car's nowadays are liquid cooled, no need to do any of that stuff anymore.

Pretty sure he read one of his idiotic posts and tried to block himself