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I used a crow foot and a long star key inserted into a pipe. If you keep the crow foot at 90 degrees to the torque wrench you don't have to compensate the torque setting.

I had to drop the exhaust to install the rear sway bar, I found it easier to install rear springs with the exhaust, rear sway bar, and rear rotors removed. So I just did everything at the same time, springs, exhaust, sway bars. Was easier to do the front sway bar with the front shocks and front...

Most likely to prevent you from hard launching and blowing out the weakened rear end, you would have to add an external rear end brace and third party performance "tune".

Thanks! I'll try sealing the windshield with tape this weekend then road test it.

https://www.foexplorer.com/ford_explorer_removal_and_installation_wheel_knuckle-460.html Last two steps of above procedure:

I Don't have any Vibration issues with my '23, but it whistles when hit with headwinds. Where do you feel the vibrations? Steering wheel, foot pedals, floor ?

Congratulations! Nice Car! I used the USB Extenders below to remotely access a Computer, should work with Forscan. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L14ZTC

How many miles did it have on it? Any upgrades?

https://www.explorerst.org/threads/sync-10-to-8-screen-downgrade-upgrade.5479/ https://www.4dtech.com/explorer-20-23-8-to-10-touchscreen-upgrade/ https://community.cyanlabs.net/t/sync-3-downgrade-from-10-1-display-to-8-display-on-20-explorer/6843

Call the day before and ask them let it set overnight because you want to cold start it the next day.

FUSE SPECIFICATION CHART https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/vdirsnet/OwnerManual/Home/Content?variantid=6725&languageCode=en&countryCode=USA&Uid=G1977411&ProcUid=G2029955&userMarket=USA&div=f&vFilteringEnabled=False&buildtype=web

I have not done it, seems it could be done if you use a Engine Support Bar to hang the motor after using wheel cribs to lift the vehicle. You may want to check the online service manual. A 72 hour pass is about $22 at https://www.motorcraftservice.com/Home/Pricing. Check section : 303-04E...

You could probably build a box as the OP described to intercept the signals to the actuators and set the clutches as desired while feeding back signals to prevent alarms or error codes.

I think that's a different setup designed to deliver 400 hp to the rear end.

I don't think they are designed to supply full power to the rear end, even if you have a 4 bolt rear diff mount, you'll probably break something. EDIT: I guess the RWD ST has 400 HP

I had a hard time finding it myself, costs about the same a two diagnostic fees but well worth it in my opinion. https://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp https://www.helminc.com/helm/Result.asp?Style=helm&Mfg=FMC&Make=FRD&Model=EXPL&Year=2020&Category=1&Keyword=&Module=&selected%5Fmedia=

Do you have access to the service FULL service manual? It has pinpoint troubleshooting procedures. The online version is not complete, the electrical schematics and 3.0TT engine documentation are both missing.

They could have pulled the fuse or the fuse is bad. Check #64 https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/vdirsnet/OwnerManual/Home/Content?variantid=6725&languageCode=en&countryCode=USA&Uid=G1977411&ProcUid=G2029955&userMarket=USA&div=f&vFilteringEnabled=False&buildtype=web

Its not working, could be a bad electrical connection, or the AWD module is bad, or the actuator, or the front diff, best to have Ford check it out. Everytime I look, I find another TSB related to this issue. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2023/MC-10234127-0002.pdf

Your front axle disconnect Actuator is stuck, I thought it was the other one.