Search results

High flow catted downpipes will get you 20ish HP at the tires. The cat-back just adds the sound most people want. SPD, FenFab, CV Fab and Whoosh Mororsports all make good DP’s. For the money you can’t beat the quality and sound of Thermal R&D for a cat-back.

I’m over in Kingwood. Let’s get a real tune in that thing if you really want it to jump. There’s several tuners that use SCT that will put the canned tune to shame. Check out ID Speed and Gearhead.

I’ve ran a range colder since early on…tuners request. All bolt ons except turbos and HPFP/Injectors. 73K miles now and zero issues.

It’s a combination of Blendmount, Escort camera mount and a piece I made to join them together.

Never looked. I gutted 100% of the B&O and replaced it.

Swapped in an Escort M2 dash cam to replace my M1 and modified the mount I made to attach it to the Blendmount…now the camera is tucked up behind the mirror and completely out of sight.

Swapped in an Escort M2 dash cam to replace my M1 and modified the mount I made to attach it to the Blendmount…now the camera is tucked up behind the mirror and completely out of sight.

Just an FYI this “ B&O are good quality, well built components” isn’t really true. All equipment in the car is standard FoMoCo fare. All they did was license the B&O name. Here’s your B&O amp. And here’s one of your B&O speakers.

295-305 in width and at or below 31.7” diameter. That’s as tall as you can get away with.

OEM Jeep Rubicon vents with the bottom cut off to make them functional held on the 3M VHB tape after I cut giant holes in the hood. lol

Just know that 1.25 and 1.5 aren’t flush…they actually stick out past the fenders about 1/4”. Flush is 1” all the way around with the rear camber set at -.5° but nobody wants to do that work so they’ve invented this fallacy about the others being flush. Ask for close up pics…you’ll see.

Get the cop car wheels from a 2020 or newer.

The older Gen share a bolt pattern but not the hub bore size. Older wheels won’t fit 6th Gens. And any 315mhz TPMS will work.

Daryl already told you over there he’s not using the same one you’re talking about. He runs a Helix DSP and only needs the interface. He sent his Nav in and replaced it with the MoBridge trying to chase a noise issue in his car.

What people shouldn’t have to do and what they wind up doing are often times the same thing. It’s a battery…sometimes they only last for a couple of years.

I don’t understand waiting until a complete failure when you know you have a problem. Batteries are cheap and easy to swap…I’d much rather pay out of pocket than get stranded at some inopportune time.

Takes about 2 minutes longer than a normal underhood battery.

Offset is the Offset is the difference between the mounting face and wheel centerline…so it changes a lot with width.

I actually wound up taking the nipple off and using nothing. Looks cleaner under my billet cap.

It’s too narrow insofar as it just doesn’t look good. If you’re buying aftermarket wheels you want it to look good. A 285 tire is basically 11.25” tread width so putting it on a wider wheel will let the tire sit better too.