Time to put in work on the audio but I have questions:

I've been following UNBROKEN's post and there is so much great info there. I'm not a competitor for SPL competitions and I don't have 20k to dump into this. I spent 16k on a chassis for my 57' Chevy stepside, I have two teenage daughters in club sports (one getting ready to drive), and my house is a constant construction project. So my disposable income is limited.

Right now I'm planning on a JL TW5 sub in a custom enclosure beneath the rear loading deck but above the spare tire. Likely pairing with an Mosconi or Audio Control amp. Haven't decided on components for the doors yet but will probably go with Focal. I'll probably have to do the sub/amp first and then the components a few months later, if I can...

My main questions for you experienced explorer audio guys is once the Nav TV Zen A2B is hooked up, your factory speakers are no longer powered, since the Nav TV unit removes the factory (garbage) amp, right? I would think this means as soon as the Nav TV unit is in, you're forced to install component amplification. Is that right? The factory components are no longer in use except for the front tweeters which are powered by the "head unit"?

I've also never used a DSP. Every vehicle I've owned has been analog EQ. Do I need DSP? I was under the impression the Nav TV unit flattened everything out and I could adjust EQ via the amps if I go the analog route. I'm hoping the software is fairly intuitive and I don't need a sound engineering degree to use it if I'm forced to use DSP. I should probably get with the times! Thanks in advance for your input.

Correct, the Zen A2B eliminates the oem amp so no speakers will work. It does retain all of the oem convenience features like phone calls, alarm chimes, etc.
You can use a regular line level converter like an Audio Control LC2i or whatever if you just want to add a sub for now. Honestly…doing a good sound deadening/decoupling in the doors goes a LONG way towards making the oem drivers perform better.
A DSP is always a plus once you swap all the other drivers but not 100% necessary honestly. If you don’t know how to tune one or know someone that does…you’ll make it sound even worse than using passive X-overs and possibly hurt some drivers if they aren’t set correctly. They’re a powerful tool for sure but can be equally destructive if someone doesn’t understand the basics.
Lastly…a 13TW5 would be great and if you’re interested I have a mint Mosconi Pro 1/10 that will give it clean power for sale now for $650 shipped CONUS. I had to get that plug in there. lol

Awesome, thanks for the reply! So the LC2i just takes the signal from the speaker wires going to the sub and converts them to RCA output?

I've already bought most of the sound deadening materials. My doors rattle a ton, even at lower volume levels.

Good deal on that amp. I will probably take you up on that. Give me a couple days.

Yea…they’re easy to wire in and will give you what you need for now.

you could use the new epicenter micro as well. it's a nice piece to connect just a sub for now and then just use it for the bass enhancements when you upgrade everything. it comes with a knob that controls the effect of the epicenter and the volume of the sub. Just dont forget to disconnect the factory sub when you install you new stuff...

That’s what I’m doing. Sub with amp first then the rest later. If you have speaker level inputs on your amp you can pick up off the oem sun wiring without losing the rest of your sound.


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Cruising68, if you need a hand hit me up. Im in the western burbs

Hmmmmm.....a little quid pro quo? You have any projects coming up? I have a lift at my business in Wood Dale And the business is a tool company! I will be doing my springs and exhaust there whenever I find the time.

I'm in the Fox Valley.

nice, I actually need to part my mustang in order to get the ST. I'm basically ready to pull the trigger but haven't yet due to the chip shortage. Ive been doing car audio for a long time both as a profession to get me through collage and as hobby now that I'm old...LOL.
where in Wood Dale? and what type of tools? My group of friends hang at my buddy's shop in Schaumburg, he uses it for his contracting business, but he has a lift there and works on his many projects. Im always down to lend a hand.

High precision automotive assembly tools and all sizes of lifts, hoists, and inside crane systems. Right off 390 at Wood Dale road.

Did a lot of work with Speed Inc when I road raced my CTSV. Tom seemed like a really nice guy to work with.

I'll keep you posted on my time frame but most of the work is on weekends.

I indirectly know tom as well through some friends. smart team at speed inc. I grew up watching them all street race.
do you sell the lifts? My buddy may be in the market.

Sorry don’t sell lifts. Put a nice 12,000lb two post Rotary lift in so we could service our trucks.


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Started the box build. External dimensions are 5”x36”x15”. Fits pretty damn good. I plan on somehow cutting a circle in the factory false floor/rear deck but leaving the carpet which should allow the sub to sit nearly flush with the floor/rear deck. I may decide to something different very soon. I like the idea of being able to completely conceal it and still have full use of the space if needed.

Spare is still there, if it wasn't obvious. Need to make ANOTHER trip to Lowes before I can mount the sub. I grabbed 1/4-20 machine screws and t-nuts but those are just slightly too big. Box is birch ply.

Storm is rolling in and I live way up in the mountains so I probably won't make any more progress this weekend. Have all my wiring ready to go but as you can see, my garage is full of motorcycles, a truck chassis and a bunch of tools so I have nowhere to work when the weather turns to shit.

Looks good so far! I may end up with my sub there but first I'm going to try and make a custom enclosure where the oem sub goes. Only need .8cuft and it looks like there is lots of room there.

Nothing better than glued and screwed Baltic Birch for an enclosure. I’m anti-mdf.

Look at my build thread…there’s pics in there of my false floor cover…I think it’s better to build a new 1-piece cover than reuse the oem parts. Super easy to do.

There's a lot of room behind that panel, for sure. This JL 13TW5 only needs .8 cuft and I'm right at that including the sub displacement.

I will likely go that route in the long run. Thanks for posting all your build details, man. It's been very helpful!

That's what I'm shooting for. I had a bag of packing peanuts appropriating .8cuft. Looks like it should fit easily. There is a ton of space to the rear and under the oem sub so if I need the space i can expand into that area. Don't think I will need to though.