+1 Signing up to say thank you for the guide! It helps provide some context for the Ford TSB. I'll provide some notes from my install.
Removing the driver seat is not that hard and I think worth the effort. I also tried reseating the connector first, but it only cleared the codes for a day or two. I had one mounting nut on the module that was not grounded, tightening fixed that. My pin 46 was not connected to ground at all when I tested it (I am assuming this was the major issue). To fix it, I removed the back housing of the connector but did not bother removing the red locking block or depinning the ground wire. I simply cut the black and white wire from the harness and used a waterproof butt crimp to connect the new ground wire. My guess is Ford tells you to depin it to make the crimping and heat shrinking safer/easier but I didn't find it necessary. Soldering would obviously be better if you have the skills and want to take the time. For the new grounding point I used an M6 tap to tap threads into the hole as the first bolt I tried completely stripped out.
Removing the driver seat is not that hard and I think worth the effort. I also tried reseating the connector first, but it only cleared the codes for a day or two. I had one mounting nut on the module that was not grounded, tightening fixed that. My pin 46 was not connected to ground at all when I tested it (I am assuming this was the major issue). To fix it, I removed the back housing of the connector but did not bother removing the red locking block or depinning the ground wire. I simply cut the black and white wire from the harness and used a waterproof butt crimp to connect the new ground wire. My guess is Ford tells you to depin it to make the crimping and heat shrinking safer/easier but I didn't find it necessary. Soldering would obviously be better if you have the skills and want to take the time. For the new grounding point I used an M6 tap to tap threads into the hole as the first bolt I tried completely stripped out.
