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Lowered Cars /W Spacers And Adding -.5 Deg To Rear...
- Thread starter BitViper
- Start date
I am in Sarasota but that said, they claimed to max out the movement ability in that adjustment. I couldn't get to that number or close to it but within the green tolerances. I took it to another shop and they said the same. While I would like the rear to be slightly mor vertical, it is not that far off.
<<DOUBLE POST, LOOKING FOR ANY RESPONSE/ADVICE>>
Getting ready to install Eibach springs, 30mm wheel spacers and 285/45R21s on stock wheels.
Based on this and other threads, and on UNBROKEN’s advice, I intend to do a “rough” rear camber setting myself by loosening the adjustment bolt and moving it all the way to the outside end (away from centerline of the car) with weight off of the suspension. Intent is to get to/beyond the -.5 that is recommended for this setup. Then, once I can find an alignment shop that will agree to set things beyond factory specs (Most won’t, either because they don’t know how, or because they will only do settings within factory specs due to liability concerns…. Have a wreck, and lawyers will absolutely try to blame a shop if they have done anything not approved by OE….)
Since it seems that the bolt head and flange hide the fact that there is an adjustment slot in the body, having it all the way outward would at least let the slot be seen, plus, if it ends up being less than -.5, maybe even at zero, they will at least recognize that negative camber can be increased to the desired setting…. Meaning moving top of wheel inward towards centerline of the vehicle.
Questions about this: is stock setting MORE negative than -.5? It seems doing this rough start method would move the top of the wheel away from centerline of vehicle and would REDUCE negative camber to get closer to -.5, meaning the factory setting must be in the -3 range or so(?).
I “think” I have this right…. NEGATIVE camber means top of wheel is towards centerline of the vehicle and POSITIVE camber (or LESS NEGATIVE camber) moves top of wheel AWAY centerline of vehicle, right?
EDIT: Has anyone used this? https://gyraline.com/products/the-case
Getting ready to install Eibach springs, 30mm wheel spacers and 285/45R21s on stock wheels.
Based on this and other threads, and on UNBROKEN’s advice, I intend to do a “rough” rear camber setting myself by loosening the adjustment bolt and moving it all the way to the outside end (away from centerline of the car) with weight off of the suspension. Intent is to get to/beyond the -.5 that is recommended for this setup. Then, once I can find an alignment shop that will agree to set things beyond factory specs (Most won’t, either because they don’t know how, or because they will only do settings within factory specs due to liability concerns…. Have a wreck, and lawyers will absolutely try to blame a shop if they have done anything not approved by OE….)
Since it seems that the bolt head and flange hide the fact that there is an adjustment slot in the body, having it all the way outward would at least let the slot be seen, plus, if it ends up being less than -.5, maybe even at zero, they will at least recognize that negative camber can be increased to the desired setting…. Meaning moving top of wheel inward towards centerline of the vehicle.
Questions about this: is stock setting MORE negative than -.5? It seems doing this rough start method would move the top of the wheel away from centerline of vehicle and would REDUCE negative camber to get closer to -.5, meaning the factory setting must be in the -3 range or so(?).
I “think” I have this right…. NEGATIVE camber means top of wheel is towards centerline of the vehicle and POSITIVE camber (or LESS NEGATIVE camber) moves top of wheel AWAY centerline of vehicle, right?
EDIT: Has anyone used this? https://gyraline.com/products/the-case
